In this bonus extra mid-week video, I talk about the mistake I made when I ordered my Topo Toppers Mesa wedge pop-up truck camper on my Nissan Frontier. Nothing wrong with the camper itself…I absolutely LOVE this thing. There’s just one additional upgrade I wish I had opted to have Topo install when I configured my camper.
Now I need to figure out a DIY approach. I’ll walk you through everything I’ve thought of (and why most ideas won’t work). I would love to hear what you think or what possible approaches I’m not thinking of.
Topo Toppers Mesa wedge camper:
https://www.topotoppers.com/
Alldogs Offroad/Koni 2″ lift kit:
https://www.alldogsoffroad.com/alldogs-offroad-complete-lift-kit-w-koni-82-series-shocks-for-2nd-gen-nissan-frontier
Alldogs Offroad wheels for Frontier/Xterra:
https://www.alldogsoffroad.com/alldogs-offroad-rb6-16×8-alloy-wheel-for-nissan-frontier-xterra
ASFIR 4×4 skid plates:
https://www.asfir.com/skid-plate-set-591070b.html
Recovery gear from Yankum Ropes:
https://yankum.com/?afmc=softroadingthewest
(use code SOFTROADINGTHEWEST for a discount off your purchase)
Reign Outdoor 270° Awning:
https://reignoutdoor.com/store-2/p/style-01-ej5na-kj67d
Tail Gater Tire Table:
https://amzn.to/48oVIcm
Cast iron propane burner:
https://amzn.to/3F0qyez
MAXTRAX MKII recovery boards:
https://adventure-imports.com/products/maxtrax-mkii-signature-orange
Wavian NATO Jerry Can:
https://amzn.to/3P4Nqhe
Viair 300p compressor:
https://amzn.to/43b18Fw
As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases made after clicking one of my Amazon links, even if you ultimately choose another product. Purchases made via my link at Yankum also provides a small benefit to the channel. This costs you nothing, but the small commissions earned on referrals support the ongoing creation of content for this channel. Thank you!
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Wow, I am ASTONISHED by the volume of comments and SO MANY great ideas I didn't think of. I was trying to reply to every comment but I'm unable to keep up today, I have some deadlined work to finish and getting ready to head out of town. But here are a few clarifications regarding some of the most frequent suggestions:
MOUNT THEM ON THE HOOD
I completely forgot to cover this in the video, but that actually was one of my first ideas months and months ago. It IS do-able, but when I mocked it up with my Maxtrax on there, I reeeeally did not like how much of my view they blocked. Fine on the highway, but on tricky trails, it really seems like a hindrance to picking lines, so I ruled it out very early on. I may need to revisit this however, it's a solid idea and may ultimately prove preferable to any other solution.
SEA SUCKER SUCTION CUP MOUNTS
I also forgot to mention these in the video…this is definitely a good idea, so much so that I actually came very very close to doing this a few months ago. I literally had their traction board kit in my shopping cart, credit card in hand and ready to proceed with checkout, but changed my mind at the last minute. I have a buddy who uses them to carry his traction boards on the hood of his Xterra and he's happy with it, they hold just fine. As noted above, I don't want mine on my hood, but I was thinking about using the Sea Sucker to mount to the camper roof without drilling holes. I could still do that, but they really stick up kind of high, and are vulnerable to theft. Ultimately I felt like if I am going to carry them on the camper roof, I'd rather take my chances with drilling through the roof for a lower-profile and theft-proof installation. Sea Sucker seems like a really good product though.
HAVE TOPO TOPPERS RETROFIT THEIR RAILS
This isn't impossible, but they are in Ventura CA and I am in Eugene OR. This would require multiple days and $600+ of gasoline, so if I do end up putting rails on the roof, I will take my chances with doing it myself. 🙂
MOUNT THEM BETWEEN THE TRUCK ROOF AND THE CABOVER (similar to Alu-Cab's slide-out table storage)
There is not room. The camper cabover is so close to the roof of the truck that I cannot even slide a single Maxtrax into that space, with no hardware at all. This would be an elegant solution, but it is not possible.
ANY SOLUTION THAT INVOLVES THE KITCHEN CARGO DOOR IN ANY WAY
Offsetting the pins, center-mounting, anything at all here will not work. The Maxtrax block access to the door latches & locks, and if I move them upwards to clear the latches, they will run into the awning and prevent the door from opening properly. I wanted so bad to make this work, but it is physically impossible.
ANY SOLUTION THAT INVOLVES THE REAR HATCH/WINDOW
I do not want to block this window. One of the things I love about my build is that I can sit inside on a blustery day and enjoy a panoramic(ish) view. I will drill holes in the roof before giving up that rear window. 😄
Thanks again for watching and commenting. I'll keep trying to catch up with replies but it's probably gonna take me some days at this point. 🙂
Like others have said, I like the idea of possibly modifying the factor roof rack in a way to obtain a flat space for them to fit.
I've seen some having them mounted on the hood
Check out the brackets Harker has to allow you to use their rear hatch as a table.. they’re essentially arms the protrude over the fender, from base of the camper. Angle them steeper, and have them float the maxtrax over the passenger rear fendee
I’m surprised you still have your rear seat still in place. I would remove it regardless of where you site your max tracks. Get a platform back there, with storage underneath.
Have you considered attaching Yakima rain gutter style attachments on the side of the roof, then using rain gutter racks across the top for your needed storage. Craigslist usually has a number of ads for the old rain gutter racks and accessories at reasonable prices. Don’t forget you’ll need a way to access the top, could be a telescoping ladder in your future.
If you go with tracks on top, butyl tape just might be your new best friend, in addition to speaking the screw heads.
Have fun, and thanks for letting us tag along on your wanders.
can't you put something similar to the Maxtrax Table at the back of the car, a hinge under the box and one under the jerry can. then you get a small table too
I would make use of the kitchen door that opens on the camper. Make 2 rails and rivet them on the door and paint black. Long as the stuts on the door can handle the weight of the maxtracks. Use some silicone to water proof. The tracks will be way more assessable and looks better. Not to mention adding stuff on the roof is a mpg hit.. Adding those to the roof will be a pain in the ass to get them.
What’s your mpg?
I would probably make a frame out of 80/20 to go in the cab roof spot. The curve can be dealt with using spacers or possibly rubber bushings.
Can you get rid of one 5 gallon Jerry can and mount them in place of that and get a rotopax that you can mount on top of your toolbox? I understand you may not like Rotopax or use one of the armidillo gas bags and fill it only when you need it and mount it on top of your truck toolbox. Just some thoughts. If you do decide to mount them on your roof look into the small metal steps that mount to your car door jams to get up on your roof. I use one and it’s surprisingly solid and small and easy to pack away.
How about behind the awning just above using the awning brackets
Another vote for the hood. Mount one flat on each side wouldn't block the view. Be easy to remove if needed.
Use a piece of flat bar attached to the top of the bed rail & it’ll give you a mounting point to fabricate a attachment that will hang out from the side of the truck bed.
Rather than drilling holes into the side of the bed.
It could even be hinged to allow for a table top, or access to your fuel door if mounted on the driver side.
You could also use a piece of 1/4”x4”x3” angle on the top of the bed rail & bolt the pieces together rather than welding. The flange of the angle would provide place for the vertical mounting brackets of the traction boards.
Rather odd, you start with the basic shell then talk about options, this is followed by gas mileage. Most people know popup options are crazy over priced to the point of almost equaling hardside campers. The gas/milage issue you seem to have will get much worse slapping on roof rails and, hanging external stuff.
A bracket between the bed and camper and mount them to the side of the truck think of it as a T bracket.
What about some where on the front bumper.
I've seen other pop top campers this way, but doesn't Topo Mount them on the edge of the rails in a slot? Can't you just run a hex bolt in the slot and bolt a bracket to the side that have a roof raill go across the top?
On the right side!
Make a nice trip back to Topo Campers and let them drill the holes in the roof and be responsible for leaks.
I read your update about not blocking the back window while sitting inside. Maybe mount them over the window with the flip down table hinges, but make them pivot upwards. You could still see out when they're up, and they'd lay relatively flat to the topper while driving. Other than that I would go on the right side, above the side window, below the top profile of the topper. It would need brackets made, and would be an inconvenience while latching/unlatching the popup. We can't pretend that a rear swingout isn't an inconvenience every time you need in the back lol.
Wish I had a viable suggestion for you. Fortunately when I got my Snap TREEHOUSE, it came with the rails on the roof and that's where I keep my Maxtrax and my shovel.
You could store the maxtracks on the floor of your camper then throw them under your truck when you are in there.
Maybe cut the factory roof rails shorter to fit in front of the camper. This will still allow the sunroof to open (maybe not fully) and give you a place to mount the traction boards. For a bit of support (if required) to the back end of the shorter cut side pieces, you could attach a "bump stop joust" (Jeep part) that will prevent any bounce between the cab roof and the rails. Mounting the traction boards on the top of a camper, becomes a big chore to use them, so you'll probably use less or try to find other solutions than the task of getting them down. Getting up there in bad weather, removing ice/snow, etc, needing to make steps or a ladder, just all a PIA!! Good luck, you'll figure it out! Cheers, from Ontario, Canada
I think the rails are the best solution. They are far from you but is driving to Topo and having them do the work and option? Pacific Coast Highway weeklong trip anyone?
I have a FWC and a few owners have made brackets that attach to the underside of the cabinet section on which they put a wind fairing. Now traction boards won't make a great wind fairing but slanted like a wind fairing on the roof might be an option..
I'm sure I'm not the only one who is interested what you decide to do.
What about some sort of awning style brackets above the Arctic Tern window?
What if you make a kind of hinges from the wing mounts to the maxtrax mounts? So it can be swing up independently from the access side panel door? Actually can be mounted in a lower position to have some clearance with the awing
May be not simple to solve but if you install some kind of a Molly Panel on your driver side flip door beetwen the hardware reinforcment it might be possible to attatch your Maxtrax pins on it, i hope……..
Get a friend with a 3d scanner
3d print mounts to level out the front roof rack mounts.
Metal bracket across the two mounts, rubber feet at the back to help support.
Mount the tracks at a slight angle to push air up over the front of the camper.
If you go with the camper roof . Look at Sea Sucker mounts , suction cups
Mount with clever brackets over the rear window of the topper. I don't imagine you can see out that window while driving anyway.
Maybe Gorilla Glue 🤷♂️
On the hood. 👍
You might put spacers under each end of rack rails on the back passenger side of the truck to hold it out past the fender flares above the rear wheels. It would mean having the recovery tracks sticking out a little farther on that side of the truck but it would be a flat surface to mount the tracks.
Have a canvas bag made to fit them and toss them in the back of the topper when you aren't in there
What about buying an extra set of awning brackets for the passenger side of the camper and fabricating something off of them. I am with you, I don’t like drilling holes in the roof.
I would mount them to the bed of the truck, on the passenger side, under the camper window.
A lot of great comments on here Donald, If it were me I would do a new clean sheet design on the rear rack you built. I'm sure there are some changes you would to incorporate after some use. And just make sure on the new design you make it where you can get to your max tracks easily.
Have you considered using 3M Very High Bond (VHB) tape to attach solid back metal strut framing to the top of the camper? No holes required. I used this solution on the roof of my JKUR so I had a place to mount my traction boards and other items. It has been working perfectly for the past four years. No movement of the traction boards even at highway speeds. You can see them at 3:25 in this video, https://youtu.be/wl3gGtwuxCw?si=gci7k32-7rHtnsTL. The 1-5/8” x 13/16” solid back strut came from Fastenal
Use Sea sucker suction cups for the roof . No need drilling holes they are great and can be used other places if you change your mind .
I'm also in OR and currently chasing a leak in my newer camper, so the the thought of drilling any holes in the roof would feel a bit sacrilegious at the moment.
I think if you basically just extend your mounting surface using a simple rack, a number of mounting options would become available. Four steel or aluminum flat bars in a rectangular shape should work nicely, but other configurations, like a Molle panel, would work as well. I even saw a guy on youtube once who built a custom rack for his Subaru out of Unitstruts. 😉
Also, I don't think you need to limit yourself to strictly using the keyhole pins or existing keyholes, as I believe you could drill new holes into the MaxTrax or utilize the handles for mounting.
If you like the idea of mounting to the side cargo door, you could mount the rack onto a wedge to clear the latches (or use a hinge to swing the mats out of the way).
But I think a better option would be to mount a rack onto the rear of the Jerry can rack so the mats are mounted vertically.
You could also build a rack that integrates both the mats and the shovel for mounting to the rear of the toolbox.
If you don't care about blocking your rear window, I'm wondering if mounting to the rear swing door may be a possibility.
I would exhaust all my options before drilling new holes into the roof or body panels, although I admit Andrew's table mount is a really slick solution.
Rubber coated magnets with different spacing to accommodate the bedside. Use a basic frame to align the pins
Are you able to swap the cargo door with the clear one and somehow retrofit the hardware mounts for that door to incorporate the pins? Wouldn’t have the issue with clearance anymore.
Try bike rack solutions or kayak from Thule or Yakima, movable type approach..
I would just buckle strap them to the side of Jerry cans where you had them at about 4 :58.. it would make things really easy and simple
Mount them on a Front Sun Visor Protector Windshield Deflector for Nissan Frontier
Fashion some L shaped brackets and mount them to the passenger side of your camper, below the window, and hanging downward. Basically upside down awning brackets. The topper is a flatter surface than drilling into the side of the truck bed above the wheel well. And much more convenient to access than on top of the topper, especially if you’re off canter or on an exposed ledge when you need them.
Well, it's very simple. The best place is cargo door. You need making two simple U shape brackets. However one leg of U brackets should be longer than other.