Third time is not the charm, as connecting the back of our galley to our settee just isn’t working out.
It feels so good to be getting close to the stage of beginning something new! We’re perfecting our art of fairing now, with hopes of getting primer on a lot of our surfaces coming soon!
And our furniture is almost all built out now, we just have to focus on a few fine details. Like how to fit out some of the foam trim pieces which will hold our rope lighting in the galley.
And, one project that just keeps going wrong – cutting the line for where the back of our settee meets the back of the galley splashguard. Three attempts and things still aren’t turning out exactly as we’d like them to.
We hope you enjoy!
Link to our boat: https://maxcruisemarine.com/max42sc-sailing-catamaran/
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Videos made by Jessica, featuring Matt and Georgie.
00:00 – Placing the flush hatch drain in the master bunk
03:32 – Our special BLUE DYE for fairing
06:05 – Running conduit under guest hull steps
07:39 – Routing galley trim for rope lighting
09:43 – Looking into wireless light switches
12:23 – Georgie misses outdoor boat life
12:44 – Three attempts to cut and each one was wrong
17:37 – Closing
Music:
Blue Texas – Rockin’ For Decades
Mimicking Your Breathing – Harper Rey
More Than You Can Chew – Rockin’ For Decades
Rain Checking – OTE
Pandemonium (Tribute Version) – The Mondays
Camera equipment used:
– Panasonic Lumix GH5
– Shure VP83F shotgun microphone – https://amzn.to/2rsIHLL
– GoPro Hero8
Previous Boats: 1983 Trisalu 37 – custom aluminum, built in Quebec (Elements of Life) Where we’ve been: 2.5 year refit in Indiantown,
Florida; Abacos, Bahamas; St. Barth’s; St. Maarten; Antigua; Saba; Azores; Ireland; Scotland; Norway; England 1989
Sabre 34 Targa (Serendipity)
Where We Sailed Her: U.S. – Bahamas – Jamaica – Cuba – Cayman Islands – Honduras – Guatemala – Belize – Mexico – Bermuda – Azores – Madeira – Canary Islands – Sint Maarten – BVI’s – USVI’s
Editing software: Adobe Premier Pro
Website: http://www.mjsailing.com
Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/mattandjessicasailing
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/mattandjessicasailing
& https://www.instagram.com/mj_wayfaring/
source
You need a left hand saw…
That drain hole looks like a perfect opening for an insect nest.
man there are so many details to appreciate i did not even think of the hatch gutter.
Suggest you investigate lightening suppression for plastic boats, mates cat was hit and blew up every electrical device on the boat and I mean EVERYTHING. Just be mindful that lightening is actually SHF so high voltage skin effect is better for carrying current rather than conductor cross sectional area. ie, your better with a woven mesh conductor and a big thick cable. Base of mast if your stick is going to ally, all the way to the top if carbon, other connections are stays connecting to through hull fittings well away from all your electric motors and controls.
Great job guys
i have been building high end homes for the last 20 years. just remember nothing is perfectly level or plumb. it doesn't have to be perfect, it has to look perfect. the best finish carpenters are the best cheaters.
SABER SAW ????
Thanks!
There is just so much to think about when building this vessel. Hats off to you two for taking on this challenge.
Getting a flat surface is hard by hand. Good on you guys for doing it though. It will be so much nicer looking when finished. Us woodworkers use a crosshatch pattern of pencil lines. As we sand and the lines disappear we know that area is level and do not go over it again. Any lines remaining means re-crosshatch and start again until the low spot is gone.
Build a jig out of wood then use your jigsaw to run flat on its side. Jigs are your friend. You could even use a hand saw held flat against the top of the jig.
For your light control Philips Hue is sure not the cheapest but widely implemented platform. It would work without internet just from or via one Hue Bridge, and they are also implemented in HomeAssistant and Homebridge. Only downside for my opinion is they need 120V or 240V running to the light socket. So not really running just from the house battery voltage. Switches and Motion sensors are powered by little batteries who last at minimum one year, some of my applications already 4years without battery need to be changed. You need to decide if you go 120V or 240V for that part of the house power.
I would probably install both Voltages on the boat anyway. Type-A US Sockets for 120V and Type-F European (German) Schuko socket’s for 240V are the most useful ones around the world. Best system for my opinion besides boats would be Swiss Type-J because it’s space saving and orientated but unfortunately only used in Switzerland, or the similar one Type-N only used in South Africa and Brasil.
Backup emergency light at Bridge and Deck should be probably go directly from a 12V Battery, maybe even a separate „classic“ acid battery. Reason for that is if you get a lightning hit usually electronics (every good lithium has a BMS inside) fail but classic circuits and battery might more likely survive. If you are able to keep that circuits completely separated even better. But keep in mind Lightning doesn’t care about thin wire isolation, therefore even the wires should run separately.
Most dangerous on a boat is fire, electric fire starts from bad contact and overloaded wires. A simple thermal camera is a good tool to inspect your installation. And that not only after installation, but more importantly you can and should recheck regularly en voyage.
Enjoy your vacation time and recharge to continue this amazing build.
After that bit of blue die, and fairing next, looking forward to some more primer going on. Some things just don't go right whatever permutations you try. Good to see Georgie put and about.
You two are amazing. So many would have never taken on the mission and still be married😉🤗
Your attention to detail is phenomenal … I looked up the word Phenomenal in my dictionary and it simply showed me your photo! Stay Safe & Fair Winds!!
Since you always make sure that every new piece is leveled with the boat, I'm wondering how often you check to see that the base of the boat is still leveled as you set it up?
The first lightning strike will take out all your electronic, keep it simple.
Continually so impressed with how well you do, and how much work it takes to scratch build a boat.
Wouldn’t it be worthwhile to have an extraction unit when you’re in an enclosed space to help eliminate dust. Set up a negative pressure zone with simple filters. Would also help with cleanup from all the cutting/filling/sanding.
I know you guys want to do this all your self but hire a professional mud guy to put down the first skim coat of filler he will do it so well you will barely have to sand it will be Shockingly better if you don’t believe me watch some videos of drywall or plaster tapers
YOU DA MAN MATT!!! Your attention to detail and your craftsmanship is impeccable!!! In College I earned my Bachelor of Science in Marine Technology building boats and engines. You could have easily been a Professor with your knowledge, skills, and experience. Maybe in your next life…lol
Sadly I think the sailing genre has passed its peak on YouTube. Covid and boat builds have hit hard. Some countries are still trying to open up and a lot of people are waiting for new boats delayed by supply chain issues. Maybe in a couple years it will be back, but unfortunately I think some will move on.
Matt, does a router work to get the correct angle. Great job!
With all that sanding I would have invested in a powered jitterbug sanding board. They come in all sizes. (;-) TP
Spot on!
I'm not a boat builder, but I've seen "Guide Coat" used in auto body. Something like:
SEM 38203 Black Guide Coat – 12 oz.
or
Dura-Gold Premium Black Dry Guide Coat Kit, 7 Ounces (200 Grams) – Powder that Instantly Highlights Auto Bodyshop Repair Surface Imperfections, Identify Body Filler Pinholes, Sanding Scratches Defects