TIRE SHOP DISASTER! Replacing WORN control arms goes WRONG!



A seized bolt and an incompetent tire shop resulted in me going FIVE WEEKS without my daily driver BMW! What happens when basic car maintenance can spiral into an absolute disaster!

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33 thoughts on “TIRE SHOP DISASTER! Replacing WORN control arms goes WRONG!”

  1. There are some m-suspension components you can swap onto a non m-e46. The RTA’s, upper and lower control arms are the same between the m and non-m 330’s. You can run m3 RTAB’s and the ball joints in both upper and lower positions on the RTA vs one ball joint and a bushing on the non-m’s. Of course you can swap the entire rear subframe and diff from a m3 onto a non-m.

    IMHO unless you’re driving a 325i or less it’s not worth it. For the lesser models you end up with bigger brakes and axles, min gain on a 330. While you also gain the LSD it’s been beat on for 20 years and likely needs a rebuild.

    On the front you can run m3 lower control arms, sway bar and struts as well on non-ms with appropriate strut bearings.

    Nice work as always.

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  2. That scenario is what we have over here in the rust belt. The jungle store sells diablo sawzaw blades, and they work as good as their circular saw blades that are top rated. I cut up a wrecked 08 mercury milan using those blades, and used far less than any other blades I've tried. G-d bless you fellas.

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  3. Every shop tech should be able to balance a wheel. Using only a minimal amount of weights.
    But when you still have wheel judder after a good wheel balance and a brand new rotor you should test the run out of the bearing flange. Use a micrometer. If it's badly rusted or warped only a tiny bit it will translate to much more run out because of the sizes of wheel and rotor.

    When you are particularily nerdy about alignment maybe try to find a racecar specialist shop?

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  4. You ever thought about being on TV or radio as an announcer? Always thought you have that voice and you do speak well. Too bad vehicles don't listen to it and fix themselves, right? LOL Glad you got yet another ordeal finalized and to your satisfaction. Just sucks that car stuff can take just way too long under certain circumstances. But then there's motorcycles and boats? See ya next time. Hello to Tyler also.

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  5. I can tell you exactly what was going on at the chain tire shop. They typically pay peanuts compared to actual shops, and their hours are usually garbage as well. Any tech worth their salt, that hasn't rage quit the industry, can get a better job elsewhere. High turnover is EXTREMELY common in your Midas, Firestone, Goodyear, Tireman, ect, type shops. I worked for a Goodyear for six months at the beginning of my career 20 years ago and it was a nightmare. Never. Again.

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  6. Have you done the rear subframe bushings yet? Those will make an big difference as well. The easy rout is the 034 motor sports aluminum inserts that work with the stock bushings. I have a new set I can let got for $100

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  7. While the Milwaukee Torch sawzall blades used to be the hot setup, there are now sawzall blades with carbide teeth. Used one to rip through the suspension bolts on my nephew's Silverado (rusted in place like yours). I had burned up several Torch blades so we ran to the Borg (Lowes/Home Depot) and bought the carbide blade on a whim. It went through the hardened steel bolts like a hot knife through butter. No muss, no fuss.

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  8. The opossum is a cool pet and the only marsupial native to North America. Although I prefer the raccoon which is more inquisitive and playful.

    Also an air chisel is way easier than a saw or cutting wheel when removing bolts.

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