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Games Workshop Citadel Contrast Paints, Army Painter Speed Paints, and metallic paints are ways to achieve great miniatures in less time. So what if we could combine them TOGETHER? In this video, I attempt to craft my metallic contrast/speed paints or decide if there is a REASON these paints were never released.
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Lyla Mev The Mini Witch creates beginner miniature painting tutorials and easy-to-understand guides for Warhammer, dungeons & dragons, and more. My favorite things to paint are sisters of battle, display quality miniatures, and focusing on having fun.
00:00 Intro
00:41 The Color We Need
1:40 The Game Plan
2:33 Contrast Paints
4:29 Contrast Paints 2
5:34 Army Painter
6:59 The Ultimate Gold
8:38 The Finale
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Whats your go – to technique for painting metallics fast?
Great video. I have also extensively experimented with creating my own metallic contrast paints. I have used Metallic Paints with Flow Improver which gave mixed results. I also have used Metallic Acrylic inks and Flow Medium (a mixture of Acrylic Medium and Flow Improver) which gave good results. My best results came from a Pearlescent Medium as a base (the brand is a trade secret as it’s hard to get), Metallic and Shimmer Inks and Flow Improver. Metallic Mica Powders can also be used in place of the inks. If you use mica powder it has to be mixed thoroughly. The ratios are important. Too much flow improver will give a splotchy result. Too much pearlescent medium won’t allow it to flow, particularly if you have a heavy pigment like the mica powder. Good quality pigments or mica powders will give better results. If the powders are too chalky they won’t dissolve properly. I’m currently setting up my own hobby channel that will focus on budget diy hints and tips, so this is pertinent to me.
Gonna stick to standard metallics.
Speed paints are okay for sure, but they're not completely a replacement for painting in all respects.
so far my personal go to for metallics is using the Airbrush. it may sound crazy but I'm painting a Grey Knights Army and I've managed to not only get the silver blue hue known to them but also depending on how the light hits my models they look Metallic Blue, metallic silver/blue or pure silver. I've used for them Turbo Dork's turboshift wavelength as the base color then deciding on the light source, go with Silver fox, and then mix of silver fox and tin star for the final highlights.
it might not be a "fast" technique but when painting large models or a few in one hit it works.
Airbrush with mirror chrome ink as a base coat, speed paint 2.0 for color.
So you lazily gave the gold a wash to give your method more merit? Literally could aboded that pooling by touching it with a dry brush. But content right?
I think regular metallics with a oil wash is the goto, more control taking off what you don't want with a oil wash and no coffee staining. Plus the wash really sinks into things. .
Sadly, contrast paints and metallic pigment are just at odds with each other. Contrast paint is designed to leave more pigment in the recesses and less on raised edges, which is the exact opposite of where you want metallic pigment to go. This is why you kept getting that glittery look, because metallics need near total coverage to work and the contrast mediums were making sure that could only happen in the shadows.
Always straight to the point I guess that's why I am here hehe…
I paint a normal metallic color and then use an ink wash or tint, that's my "fast" method.
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
Great experiment! I think vallejo metal colors would work better mixed with contrast style paints than army painter's metallic contrast. Maybe a follow-up video?
Try the metallic base, your darker recess color addition(s), and a glazing or matte medium in something like a 1:1:20 or 1:1:30 mixture and see what becomes of it. Just remember to adjust the parts as desired in those ranges and it should work for you
This video is sponsored by…. Cat 😂
Drybrushing and a wash plus a simple drybrushed highlight are the way to go, and simple/fast enough.🤓
What about gold paint and contrast medium with a few drops of glaze medium?
Thank you for the video!
I have the Army Painter metallic set and I would agree that it doesn't work as well as the normal speedpaints or Contrast paints. There is some difference in the recesses but not enough. I think I might try mixing a light and dark metallic speed paint to see if that helps.
I'm a simple man. If there is a video that highlights the bad aspects of Army Painter paints, I upvote.
My favorite way to paint metallics is quite simple, black primer followed by a vallejo liquid silver zenithal highlight, then apply contrast/speedpaint. Depending on how much metallic I want to have, I'll mix in the appropriate medium for thinner coats and adjust with a second layer if needed.
My favourite cheaty-pete technique for metalics is to include something like Liquitex's bright silver ink blended with other inks for the right colours and tones
So speed paint 2.0 metallic lines isn't meant or advertised by army painter to be like the others that give you highlights and shadows. The metallic line in the speed paints is meant to cover in one coat and that's all.
I might be wrong, but I seem to recall that in NMM shades and highlights are positioned different from normal colors. That would have to be true then for the underpainting of slapchoppy metallics too ?
In modalism to achieve a nice gold result, we are using chrome as a based and then an orange ink. Check for satellite's painting
I think that an undercoat of metallic paint with a shade is the way to go. Using something like Forgeworld's Marine Juice deals with the problem of weird pooling/coffee staining, and the Marine Juice is just easier to make at home than a DIY metallic contrast.
Have you considered mixing You're one coat base color paint into a higher metallic pigment paint like Vallejo metal color or maybe scale 75 or monument hobbies? Like a paint that's not contrast base.
We are never going to get a perfect metal speed paint. Metal flakes are opaque, and thinking the paint out just adds medium amd separates the flakes. The first model is a classic example. The metal flakes are are also heavier, so they will sink into the recesses more than paint and medium will.
We can get close, but it's impossible to make the metal flakes transparent, so we are only going to get so far, unfortunately.
That looks terrible
Have you ever tried the greenstuffworld «gold pigment»? I got it awhile ago since some youtubers found it to give the best gold paint. I think it could work for your pupose since you can make it as pigment dense or light as you want. I was inspired by this video and tested blending it with imperial fist yellow and some flow improver, but the result was just a very very great covering and nicely flowing gold paint. In any case I think experimenting with both that and with the vallejo metal paints might be worthwhile.
So good
Tbh i think that's just overcomplicating
You can use the metallic with a filter of the color you want
Or you can even use the metallic 'wash over metallic' recipe. Just paying attention to pooling
Or you can do another good and fast option, that is metallic base and pin washing to avoid coffee staining
Lyla Legend! 🔥🔥🥰🍻
I think this would have gone better if you had used actual good metallic paints. Gehenna Gold doesn't even look like gold when undiluted! Why aren't you trying this with e.g. Vallejo Metal Colour, or Greenstuff World metallic pigments? If this was something I was interested in doing, I would try something like Contrast/Speedpaint medium + GSW ancient gold pigment + sepia ink. And yeah, like another commenter said, underpaint with silver, we all know metallics on top of white looks like crap.
Do you not think paint manufactures are ripping us off if you were to buy the range of some manufactures say 200 17ml bottles you're only getting about 3.5 ltr of paint for 300/400 bucks then they have the cheek to thin them and slap Air on the bottle anyway just a thought 🥱
Painting figures is a Big Fat Pain in the ASS!! I think that those who do it probably have nothing else to do with their valuable time!!!
Remind me again why we can't just mix paint into contrast medium and have a custom contrast paint.
I puddy and airbrush. For fine lines and things, I'll use metallic gel pens.
Folk art or whatever craft brand makes this mica pigmented paints that I've added to contrasts that do decently for applications like this.
I've thought about getting mica and playing with various flow aids to see if I can concoct something, but figure the chemists will figure it out some day.
Personally I don't think that works, because if your underpaint is white-ish or a cream colour as its brightest colour, that can look weird ir you're going for some metallic colour like iron. It just doesn't look realistic with a less metallic, cream-colured edge to it. Personally I like the new washes from GW and their contrast paints for this purpose, just apply the dark/light metallic base coat of choice and stain/tint it with the wanted colour. The new washes behave more like contrast paints and does less coffee staining and pools slightly better, and it doesn't tint/dulls/darken the surfaces as much as the old formulas did. But this is all about application and the look you're after, and the time spent doing it! 🙂 But still a cool and fun experiment to do! 🙂