Seized Lug Nuts?? BFH To The Rescue!!



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49 thoughts on “Seized Lug Nuts?? BFH To The Rescue!!”

  1. Mmmmm….on big rigs..on some trucks there is ahead of axle nuts not wheel nuts , cups or acorn you might say, always get the split ones, meaning there's a cut portion, they aren't solid all around. Them ones are easy to get off, the solid ones are a pitta to get off.
    In your case, if the hammer trick doesn't work, I would use freeze off, it's a spray that cool's the fastener down to -60 in a few seconds and what it does is breaks the bond between two pieces of metal. Works like a charm on any rusted on fastener.
    thanks for the vid, be well!

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  2. Don't pull up on the breaker bar Kenny! Get on the other side and push down using your weight. I actually pulled my right arm out of my shoulder socket pulling up on a breaker bar trying to remove a wheel from my F150!!!!

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  3. Wow I have changed alot of tires working in a tire shop, l never had a lug nut brake liklike you mentioned, snapped a lot of studs! But l too always hammer the lug nuts if lm reaching the point that l suspect trouble!🤣

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  4. I live in the rust belt. I used to run two garages back in the day. I've been putting a light coat of "never sieze" on lug nuts, lug bolts, and studs for decades and decades. I also put it on the threaded portion of valve stems, especially if the car has metal caps. Never had a single problem. Many people don't like this practice, but it works. Especially good for the old splined spinners on foreign sports cars.

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  5. How often do you have to change the rear brakes? If they last 3 to 4 times longer than the front then the brake bias is set wrong and the fronts are doing too much of the work. Maybe your proportioning valve has always been defective or out of adjustment.

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  6. That’s a great trick , years ago my grandpa would laugh at us young know it alls struggling with something like that on the farm.
    He would say , here’s an old Indian trick that a young cowboy showed him

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  7. I hate those type lugs, nice trick. Back many moons ago, I worked for a Goodyear store and had a customer ask me not to use the impact on his wheels, because he claimed he couldn't get them off. I took him in the back, even though I wasn't supposed to. I showed him the difference in using an impact and using the 4 way. I told him if I used that 4 way, for sure he would never get them off.

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  8. I'd have sprayed some PB Blaster on them. Some people say that stuff can't work, doesn't work.. try it. You may be surprised.. some people make a mix of like 3 different pene lubes…..

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  9. Ive broken three or four of those dumb Chrysler studs with a tire iron. The studs break off completely at the base never just the "socket" portion as you described. But yeah got a bfh and pounded out the broken stud and replaced with doorman studs never had that problem the next brake job ir tire rotation. Only the factory studs on steel wheels (no alloys) were the issue. Was actually told that Chrysler studs were problematic by a tire technician.

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  10. I have put a dab of never seize on the tapered seat of the lug nut and a dab on the threads of the stud and torqued the nuts to specs never had a wheel come loose especially you have aluminum rims been doing this for the last 30 years since I bought my suburban with factory aluminum wheels and 8 lugs back in 1990. Saved myself a lot of aggravation and back pain 😂

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  11. I know this as “Shocking the Threads”. I’ve got a block hammer I use that’s fondly referred to as “My Friend”. He often ‘talks’ to stubborn nuts and bolts.
    I’m really lucky that I have a small, portable 24 litre air compressor at home. I hook it up to a hand held air hammer and “Brrrup” the socket the same way you used the BFH.
    This sounds like the classic Aluminium + Steel = seriously stubborn fastener and the skin off your knuckles.

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  12. That's a good tip, Kenny. I never thought about that, most people would have just gorilla-gripped that breaker bar. You're the only one I've seen on YT mention that about the acorn part seizing to the rim instead of the lug stud. Thanks for sharing.

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  13. I see students use an impact gun to tighten lug nuts. 99% of the time they are over torqued. They use a Torque Wrench set at 90ft lbs and nearly always clicks without turning the lug nut. The final turning MUST be done with the Torque Wrench otherwise you have over torque the nut.!

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  14. When I was young and even more dumb than I am now I had a steel wheel rust to a brake rotor. It took a lot to break that free. Asked a mechanic about it and he told me to use white lithium grease on the rotor or drum before installing the wheel. He also told me to use a little anti seize for the lugs and the mating surfaces on the lug nuts. Never had another problem and I drive old cars up in the rust belt. Lots of people say don’t use any type of oil or anti seize on lugs. Personally I think that is baloney if you torque the nuts properly. If anything a little lube helps set the torque correctly. They don’t get loose and they come off easy. But do what you are comfortable with.

    Lots of the problems in my opinion is failure to torque correctly. I see the mechanics where I work grab a torque stick which I don’t trust or worse yet just drive them home with an impact. Who cares, it’s a customer’s car and the next guys problem right?

    I also remember when I was a teenager my girlfriend”s father had trouble breaking a lug nut free. He left the other lug nuts slightly loose and took a slow speed run up and down the block and it came free after that. I have never tried that but it worked for him. Sort of like the BFH trick but in a pinch you could try it roadside.

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  15. Great tip. I can think of several other things I would have tried but I doubt that I would have tried beating on it with a 16 lb sledgehammer. Fast easy option…..a little counterintuitive but brilliant.

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