After driving almost 450 miles over the weekend, up to the Motorist near Leeds and back, the Rover 75 was not fixed by a new battery, so whats next? Coil packs!
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Hopefully it's the shock of being used for prolonged periods, and at speed, which has caused some elderly components to fail. I remember the Volvo did similar. I still reckon this is a brilliant car and a keeper
Crank sensor, worth changing just to be sure!
What do you expect, ive also got a Rover 75 V6 the engine does have its problems but its sorted again okay it is annoying but not the end of the welt.
With my car ive got second appionment with the mot for back Handbrake thats also getting done
Life is life
It’s a shed, move it on to pastures new Matt.
Sudden engine failure after a thurough heat soak goes hand-in-hand with failing coil packs. I hope it's fixed now; let us know.
Thanks for the event, Matt , I think you way underestimated how many came because of Furious Driving , a great day was had by all .
i can see exactly why you do a youtube channel , 3 adverts before the vid even starts , rediculous
Give me a distributor anyday, even a monkey can change a set of points and a condenser. A 10/10 job, 10 minutes and £10 or under. Unless a Mini (van or pick up) or other with a hard to access distributor.
Sorry to hear of your woes with the 75. Following with interest.
I personally think you should scrap it and give me the 1.8t engine for my ZR 😉
That's a really rust free, Tidy 75 Matt, Well worth spending a bit of £ to get it sorted, I'm a classic Jag and fast Volvo owner but i do love the Rover 75, It looks like a modern day rover P4 to me with it's straight sides! I had a lovely flat wing 1955 Rover P4 years ago! ❤
Not how the Rover ECM scanners work , but I'd have thought they'd show a crank angle fault , even if it was a historic one , hope it's sorted Matt
Good repair. 75 fixed. Top Man
Crank sensor will be the problem done loads of them and they hardly ever leave a code that’s the clue
If you haven’t checked the plenum yet as a matter of course then do it, irrelevant of anything, and install the plenum spy hole mod, literally had to pull the ECU out of my 75 diesel today (which Iv had for 7 years) due to a blocked plenum drain causing water to get to my ECU, I got lucky that drying it out and cleaning the corrosion off and it fired back into life…
In 1985 we visited the UK from the US for a holiday. Because my father was too cheap to hire a car for the two weeks, he borrowed a new-at-the-time Rover SD1 2600 from the UK arm of the company he worked for. And yes, it did break down.
There's so much that can cause issues with these modern classics that firing the parts cannon at them is becoming the only way to fix them!
Hi Matt…you Rover failing…it would be a good idea to change the crank position sensor…its on the front of the clutch housing…u need to remove the air filter to access it…held in place with a small bolt….also it could be the fuel filter coming apart in the fuel tank…its under the rear seat on the nearside…. Good luck….. Bob….Paignton….
Left of a cliffhanger!!! Daa daa daaaaaaaaaaa!!!
It will be the CPS sensor I’ve changed loads. The reason for no codes is the ECU doesn’t know the engine is turning.
It's Yorkshire not Yorksheer. 😅Never mind the cars. The important question. Did you get Pontefract cakes?
The K series on my MGTF did the same thing, ,,, suddenly cut out without any warnings.
No codes were found on the Pscan.
In the end after weeks of piddling around it was dirty connections in the cam sensor wiring socket.
This socket is a common failure point in TFs, don't know if it's the same on 75s.
Intermittent faults are a pain.
Another common Kseries failure point can be the speed sensor, they can show up as working perfectly, but they are slowly failing.
Both of these are easy, and cheap repairs, a good place to start.
Ray
I’d say fuel pump or crank sensor
Coil packs failing cause rough running and loss of power, but unless they all fail at the same time they do not cause total failure. sometimes a fuel pump is the obvious issue and they do fail when they get hot and then start working when they cool, but you should be able to hear if its working. Once you have to start looking for bad connections and poor solder joints it gets to be a real nightmare.
Hopefully, fingers crossed you’ve repaired the issue Matt, as always, great video 😊.
I’d go for the crank sensor, next time it does it, hook up diagnostics and look for crank signal on cranking.