Old Engine DROPPED and BROKEN!!! Is there too much DAMAGE to RUN again?!?!?!



Well, sometime things happen and you have to just shake your head and move forward. Such is the case with this old engine that was dropped from a loader bucket, breaking the flywheel and some other small parts. Can we get it fixed and running like new again?

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32 thoughts on “Old Engine DROPPED and BROKEN!!! Is there too much DAMAGE to RUN again?!?!?!”

  1. My uncle work as a train mechanic and while working under a loco he dropped a 24 inch crescent wrench / shifter ( Australian slang , because they move when you use them ) on the bridge of his nose from arms length above his head , the result was a severely broken nose and 2 black eyes .

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  2. today you are my hero. to save that engine after what happened to it warms my heart. i always had a soft spot for old engines. thank you for saving it, bringing us along with calm tutorial, and giving us all hope for the future of the broken. best wishes.

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  3. Like you said, they are only original once. I am in the group of people that do complete mechanical restoration but leave them original looking in both my engines and tractors. Unfortunately 40 years ago we sand blasted everything and some engines with original paint got covered over.

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  4. Gees mate you got the rpms nice and slow on this ol girl the flywheels look to almost stop when it fires unless that's some camera deception going on? it would be interesting to know just how slow it's running. as for paint i like it the way it is but you do what you think's best after all it's your engine. Thanks for posting.

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  5. The tough rustic look gives the machine it's true authentic personality. Try out youtube@MartyT's solution for rust protection and preserving the rustic appearance. Mix some diesel with oil, 60% diesel to 40 % oil. 1 gallon of diesel to 1 1/2 quart of cheap oil (about $10.65), gives you 176 oz of rust-proofing mix @ about 6 cents an oz, compared to a $7.53 – 16 oz can of wd40 @ 47 cents an oz and 11 times the volume.

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  6. I want to add that most people use a crescent wrench backwards. Most use the adjusting jaw side as the loaded side of the wrench that’s wrong… the correct way is in dummy terms the rigid side( side permanently affixed to the handle) should do the (brunt of the work) the adjustable one just holds it on the fastener, tool manufacturer quality has been falling rapidly for twenty years.
    If tools are not used properly they are not going to perform (correctly)

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