My Simple Resin 3D Printing Process – From A to Z



Let me walk you through my process of how I 3D Print with Resin!

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36 thoughts on “My Simple Resin 3D Printing Process – From A to Z”

  1. Thank you Jesse. I have been wondering about printing lenses for helmets, currently crafting a couple of Space Marine helmets,Titus's and a Chaplain. I'm conscious that it may cause eye damage. After watching i might stick to sheet materials for any optics

    Reply
  2. I can't tell you how many times I see prints on reddit with a big crack in them and resin dripped all over and they're asking "what happened to my print?"
    No drain holes!

    Reply
  3. I've tried Polycrylic spray for clear coat and noticed it looked like it had tiny bumps all over from the spray droplets, so it was not perfectly clear. Then I tried brushing on 3 coats of Polycrylic from a can and that worked much better.

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  4. Only suggestion would be to hit it with some glossy clear coat for the wet look, minus the clear part. For that you'll want to use something else possibly an oil that won't make it yellow over time, as the clear coat might yellow on the clear part.

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  5. Great print! One helpful thing I have discovered is using Zona polishing paper as opposed to sand paper. The sand paper has a thicker back than the polishing paper and isn’t as flexible and easy to get into hard to reach and curved areas. Amazon has them and they are great!

    Reply
  6. I always love the detail on resin prints.. and I always find myself looking at various statues etc. thinking man I would love to make that.

    But the toxic nature of the chemicals.. the odor they apparently produce ( never been that close to one myself but EVERYONE seems to talk about it ) and the requirement for all that extra hardware ie. a curing station, uv station, and so on has kept me in fdm for now but who knows maybe some day. XD

    Reply
  7. For prints like that, and aircraft canopies, we used to use "future floor polish" to get them REALLY clear. You can't find it anymore, but a newer replacement is called "QUICK SHINE".
    You can find it at Lowes or Home Depot in the floor polish section.

    A quick dunk, let it dry, and it retains that clear look very very well.

    Reply
  8. If you are looking for the wet look, the gloss finish or varnish can usually make something look wet. Matte and satin usually look better for clothes and sometimes skin, but wet is definitely gloss

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  9. Great tutorial. I use Saraya Tech simple clear quite a bit and for best results I use Maguire's Plasti X polishing compound. All you need is a hand compound pad and a microfiber towel. You don't have to do any wet sanding beforehand and it's paintable with clear top coat. Another cool feature of the clear simple resin is I can custom tint with resin pigments.

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  10. Nice work and thanks for the work process you showcased. Now for some critique, I would have gone with that Smoky transparent black Head shield, i do think that had look so much better with the work you did on skull part, dulling it down a bit. If you look at the Xenomorphs they do not have clear skull shields they are a semi transparent Chitin which you can faintly see the skull texture beneath when the light hits it in the dark movies. And for some wet look you can go with a simple gloss varnish from the store and paint it on making it have that wet look, i would personally just do it on the most bright dry brushed parts of the model to give it a sheen as if lights hits the model.

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