MTB WHEEL TRUING | MAILTIME



The Tick takes another attempt at truing his MTB wheel for the Marin San Quinton 3 aka project Chong plus a great Mailtime

0:00 Opener/A Brilliant Mind
0:33 Intro
0:48 On This Episode
2:31 Work Begins
5:52 The Tick Messed Up
6:46 Nipple Correction
7:58 The Tick Always Pats Himself On The Back
13:41 Mailtime
14:04 A Quick Coffee Shoutout

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Wheel Truing Stand:
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Tension Meter:
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#wolfticknation #mailtime

3-30-24

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23 thoughts on “MTB WHEEL TRUING | MAILTIME”

  1. Great job Tick I knew you could do it. I’d love to see you build a wheelset now for your next big project. Have you seen the new Schwann Axum Comps at Walmart yet?

    Reply
  2. Beautiful chart! Great job Tick, a pat on the back from me. The back wheel will have higher tension on the freewheel side than the brake side, shorter spokes. Make sure it's dished, or centered, correctly or it will not be centered in the rear triangle!

    Reply
  3. You have like, the cheapest truing stand possible. I bought one of those and they're pretty unstable.

    Amazon sells one that has like turquoise colored legs and for like 15 bucks more is better.

    A poor workman blames his tools, but tools can limit the workman.

    Everyone can see how unstable and flexy that stand is. 😶

    Reply
  4. If I could type this in green text to let you know just how jealous I am right now I would do so.
    Where on earth did they get the Magura dropper. I've been trying for over a year to get myself one for one of my bikes. It is currently unavailable (according to many e-mails with Magura) in North America due to "regulatory" issues. I can't even purchase from a company outside the US and have it shipped here, unless I go the route of having it shipped to someone overseas and then having them forward it too me, which is obviously a huge hassle I would rather avoid.

    Great job on getting that wheel pretty darn close. My first experience in wheel building went a little bit better in that I got it about as straight as the one you showed after you found the nipple installed incorrectly. Took a bit more tweaking and I got as close to perfect as possible, so much so that it forced me to true the front wheel to match! Granted all I did was swap all the spokes and hub from one rim to a newer one of the same size. I had zero issues following the same method that they used on Park Tools website where they taped the new rim to the old one and moved each spoke one at a time to the new rim. I need to do it again on a spare set of wheels that I need for my other Lefty equipped bikes so the rims match, so wish me luck on number 2!!!

    Reply
  5. Being able to build wheels is kinda one of those "end game" skills on the path of bicycle mechanic skills.

    A tensionometer is used to measure the tension of each spoke, to ensure they're equally balancing the wheel.

    It's one thing to be straight in a stand, but don't taco a wheel with loose spokes just because it's "balanced".

    Reply
  6. You missed a very important part of tensioning the spokes and that is to de-stress the spokes, when you tighten the spokes it will cause the round spokes to twist and will cause the spoke head to twist in the wheel hub holes, what you need to do is get everything tight and strait with the correct dish and no oval and then remove the wheel placing it flat on the ground and pressing down on each side of the rim every 6" and then flip it over and do the same on the other side and you will hear the spokes popping as they relax, you then put it back in the stand and it will be all messed up again due the spokes relaxing and so you re-tighten get it correct then you de-stress the spokes again and you keep repeating this until it holds true. As it is now that wheel you built mighty look good now but the second you put it on the bike and use it you will hear all the spoke popping as it relaxes and it will be all over the place and far from true.

    Reply
  7. On some hubs from time to time you have to put the rim your hands, then put it down on the floor or work bench, an push with your bodyweight down on every side. Because when you tighting the nipples the spokes the can spin.

    Reply
  8. Avoid Alu nipples, I heard Sapim alu nipples are good but I've not tried them. But their brass nipples are superb, take a beating from rocks, can be trued for years. I know cus I've had them on Hope wheels.
    Buy DT Swiss rounds off with the Dt Swiss t handle spoke tool🤦 keep in mind there are different types of brass. Sapim clearly uses the good kind. So if you want something thst works for sure. That's a great option. So are their steel spokes. Most alu spoke nipples corrode fast and become whit powder, shear off during truing, round off, crack, including the DT Swiss alu nipples. Also nipples on Bontrager wheels from the past were alu too so that happen on those too.

    Reply

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