The 1969 Morris Mini strip down continues and its close a bear shell now, as this time Ive got most of the dash and bulkhead clear of parts.
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Where’s the P6 V8?
For such a simple car there is a lot of nuts and bolts brackets to remove
Are you restoring to factory, or customizing?
Wider steel rims are called ´reversé rims ´ for Mini Cooper S’s… they still have the small chrome hubcap and they fill the arches a little more .
Those little dollys are great for moving engines about and cost buttons.
Hi Matt, from Sydney, Australia. Lucas sealed beam modules had that very clever spring-loaded aim adjustment system so one "flavor" suited both left- and right-hand drive beam aiming, so with the 2 screw adjustments, one for up/down, one for left/right. suited both markets with just one style of headlight mounting pods halving design costs back when Brit's had clever design skills. Same units here in Aus' for near all cars back in the 60's using Lucas sealed beams. Now, as an aside, many people "slag" off Lucas items, HOWEVER, here in Australia, due to our mega mileage of rural roads we needed decent headlights. Many imported cars needed to have their "poxy" Bosch and other brand dim useless headlights to be binned from day one and replaced with GOOD QUALITY, SUPERIOR Lucas ones as the others failed the brightness, penetration and depth testing demanded by Australian Federal Department of Transports Aust' Design Rule standards. Many cars had same shaped molded amber blinkers as foreign markets, but the amber blinker pods had been completely, carefully re molded by Lucas to emit the correct brightness level required for the car to be ALLOWED registration on Australian roads. Also having mirror like polished alloy backing plates that further enhanced the "throw" of the lighting.
To win Concours d' Elegance competitions, owners will pay extraordinary amounts to have a PERFECT set of period Lucas lighting in their cars in Aust' to obtain the necessary points to get a prize in the Concours.
E.G. a mate has a recent import LHD 1966 w108 Mercedes Benz 250SE, it has the vertical twin headlight "americana" headlight pods with Bosch sealed beams in it and Bosch & Hella made blinker lights. Recently it broke down & he returned home from an outing with me in my Aussie delivered from new 1967 Jaguar mk10 /420G. Paul remarked how bright the headlights were, I stated they were just standard fitment period pieces, not updates. When I backtracked to "rescue" him he also remarked how bright the blinker lights were when I switched on the hazard light switch (yep we had to have those here years ago for registration approval) so all amber indicators were flashing. In the Merc' the front & rears are made by the 2 different German coy's and from a distance are quite dim. However, as to the MK10/420G's all Lucas indicators, the tilt-a-tray towie to collect Paul's Merc' saying "jesus couldn't you find a brighter set of hazards, you could see yours from the moon", the total opposite of people slagging off Lucas as the prince of darkness.
I've owned my big, giant Jaguar for years and years now and it's Lucas electrics have never failed me, in the mid '70's to '80's I had a '65 model 4.2 ltr mk10 & I racked up 150,000 miles in it, mostly remote rural miles & NO Lucas issues, and for 32 years from 1979 I owned a rare series 1 long-wheelbase XJ6 190,000miles and not one Lucas issue. However, my best mate has a pair of low mileage w126 Mercedes a 560SEL LWB 4 door and a 380SEC coupe, both are beset with Bosch electrical issues, the 560 has done just 200miles in his care & the 380 coupe about 1.000mls however in the same time I have done 40,000 miles yep FORTY Thousand trouble free miles in the 22yr older Jag. My Jag IS NOT restored just lovingly maintained by both myself and its prior 1st owner bought by me in 2012 it's been flawless, faultless. So much for the perceived excellence of the Mercedes product, in the cold light of day not so good. Whereas the mk10's been bullet proof in reliability.
Keep the old wheels for now, as spare.
It's a rare auto so please keep it stock including the wheels. There lies the value.
this will take a long time and effort and bucks to get it road worthy. I have worked on a few of these in the past(not Recent) and they can be buggers to work on. Drum brakes were the norm on these in 69 but there is a conversion kit to make them disc. Envious of your ability to squeeze into wee areas inside the car. I can't do that any more. Not to worry, these things can take years to put back together. So no rush. Later 👍
big job matt, but im sure it'll all be done for christmas……just not sure what year though? 😉 lol😉
Hi Matt, glad it's you stripping the Mini, I just wouldn't have the patience or be able to cope with all that dust. I'm surprised you haven't got a bean bag for non tripod support, also useful for kneeling or sitting on ☺️. I found ages ago in a bargain bin a really useful abs plastic tripod head that clamps onto car side windows, won't take full size SLR but will work as bridge or lens support.
Yay mini content at last. Get a bench grinder with a wire wheel disc to clean compents such as the engine steady etc before its ready to reassemble. Money well spent and does a good job cleaning up rusty bolts too
deffo replace bushes on engine steady bar- if it can move it will allpw the exhaust to break/come loose- back in the day kwik fit refused to fit exhaut unit i change the rubbers!
If one even thinks a rusty old car is going to release its nuts and bolts without a fight is dreaming! If nevertheless they come out whole, call it a miracle!
Are the springs for keeping the light in position as they're aligned with the screws being tightened or loosened to adjust the aim? I believe that's the purpose.
In case I missed it, how are you indexing the bits? (If at all)?
Mini rooves often ended up white – not for prettiness, but to slow the sun heating up the cabin.
Absolute chaos!
I’d keep it original in the colour and wheels, and those gorgeous and now very rare hubcaps
Following this restoration
You talked about wheels. If you can source Dunlop reverse rims then these are idea for a drum brake car . Cooper S wheels have a different offset for discs and would stick out too far. Dunlop reverse rims are 4.5" and fit on the car without the need for extension arches (well this was my experience in the early 1980s with my drum brake 1977 Mini 1000). Normal 145 tyres are happy on the 4.5" rims. With the centre cap hub caps these look subtly different. Any wider will need wheel arches.
love it!
Jut to add to the 'stuff you already know' file, bagging and labellung stuff is always worthwhile come reassembly time. 😊