Massive Vise Restoration! Broken 120lb 6” Chas Parker!



In this restoration video I take a cracked 120lb Chas parker vise back into service! The cracked tail was making this vise totally unusable and after some rust removal and welding its good as new! I enjoyed experimenting with this Nickel welding rod and im looking froward to learning more about that process on other projects!

Check out the new Lincoln 215MPI Mig, Tig and Stick Welder below:
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Check out the WD-40 Brand products I used in this project below:

https://bit.ly/3wWrdtZ – Rust Remover Soak

https://bit.ly/2YIo5Ub – Penetrant Spray

https://bit.ly/3a5z0sQ – Gel Lubricant

https://bit.ly/3buncFC – Heavy Duty Grease

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Pferd Wire Wheel: https://amzn.to/3TngfqI

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Check out the Lincoln Electric Power Mig 140MP, great for the home shop, Mig, TIG, and Stick in 1 machine!
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Thank you to Pferd abrasives for supporting my shop and my channel. For links to some of the grinding discs I use most see below:

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→ Inside corner disc (AMAZING):
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Thanks for watching! Be careful, know the limits of your skills and your tools! Don’t try this stuff at home!

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Below are some links to tools I use in the shop on a daily basis.

Starbond CA Glue:
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→ Bosch Miter Saw ( My Favorite miter saw)
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→ Sawstop Table Saw:
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→ Wen Tabletop Metalcutting Bandsaw
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→ Articulated Vise:
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→ Bosch Portable Bandsaw ( 18V)
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→ Porter Cable Restorer:
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→ Lincoln 120V Welder ( good for a home shop)
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43 thoughts on “Massive Vise Restoration! Broken 120lb 6” Chas Parker!”

  1. Muriatic acid for concrete etching is inexpensive and really rips out pepper spots in metal. Super corrosive and generates a lot of dangerous fumes when applied, this process has to done outdoors with proper PPE. A bucket of water with a box of baking soda will neutralize your project effectively.
    Pick up a jug at a big box home improvement store and try it out on a small rusty steel part. You will be impressed!

    Reply
  2. The one thing that you could have done is drill a hole at the end of the crack before starting the welding. That ensures it won't propagate further when you start to introduce heat and stress to it. Overall that is a really good restoration. Nice work.

    Reply
  3. Chris,

    Out of curiosity did you consider dye penetrant testing to make sure you got all of the crack? Along with that, did you consider drill shopping the crack to assure the crack didn't propagate when you started adding heat.

    When you were trying to free the vise did you consider using a pancake jack between the jaws? This would have placed the force closer to being parallel to where the vise was binding.

    Your work is very good. I am glad your restoration is being done to put the vise back into service. My guess is your new vice is going to outlast you and your children.

    Bob

    Reply
  4. Never seen jaw faces that are pinned in place, that was new for me. Nice job on pinning the screw box in place, it needs to float a small bit so it doesn't break under extreme force, but it doesn't need to float out the back and punching it out from below should be easy peasy in 20 or 30 years.

    Reply
  5. All you did was a put a bandaid onto a cut that needed stitches. You need to drill out a hole where the crack ends on both sides. And with Cast Iron you don’t weld it. You use brazening to repair the crack.

    Reply
  6. Big beautiful vise. Very nicely restoratioing Chris. Hopefully you get great use out of it for many years to come my friend. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Forge On. Fab On. Weld On. Keep Making. Don't Die. God bless.

    Reply
  7. Overall it was a pretty decent effort no question about it. Something I would have liked to have seen would have been on the handle for the crank with the rounded ends instead of welding the one back on it would have been nice if you could have threaded them. That way that it could be removable fairly easily if you ever need to get the thing out again. It is definitely a bit of a beast though although I'm much more partial to the bullet Vise on your table just behind it

    Reply
  8. One thing that's really important is to drill a hole at the end of the crack to eliminate the potential stress riser. I would have ground that crack all the way down to the bottom. If you get porosity, you HAVE to grind it out and start over. Welding over top of it is not what you want to do.

    Reply
  9. The Chas Parkers have a tendency to crack the head off the movable jaw. I've seen sooo many with that defect and have a nice big 6" that was all welded up with nickle. Nice vise, stronger now than it was new and I wouldn't want to give it up. Just watch it if you're really cranking down on something.

    Reply
  10. Nice job on functionally restoring the vise! I'm the same, restore a tool so its functional again and put it to work! Good job on the cast iron welding! I would definitely enjoy you tackling other tool restorations!

    Reply
  11. Pro Tip. To increase the fluid level in your rust remover dip tub, you can introduce ‘non-reactive’ materials such as glass marbles, certain stones such clean river rock. Or just poly bag the parts and remove the air so the liquid contacts all surfaces. The second method is not as effective unless you continue to remove the gas that accumulates inside because of the the chemical reaction between the rust and the rust remover.
    👍nice video

    Reply

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