How to Repair a Broken Rocking Chair – a Restoration by Fixing Furniture #Leather



This broken rocking chair had loose parts and needed some TLC. As always, Scott shares furniture restoration tips as he makes this broken and loose rocking chair work as good as new.

In this video, you will see:
– How to take the rocking chair apart
– How to remove finishing nails
– How to fix the issues with loose joints
– How to fit and install a new leather seat
– How to use wax burn-in wood filler
– How to use epoxy putty wood filler
– How to stain wood filler to match the finish
– How to reassemble the rocking chair

RELATED VIDEOS:
How to Make Wedges – https://youtu.be/4VFBvs1x-lI
Types of Glue for Furniture Repairs – https://youtu.be/qK0IR8WT_jE

CleanLathe YouTube Channel – https://www.youtube.com/cleanlathe

OUR MERCHANDISE – https://woodenitbenice.ca/collections/all

LINKS:
Fencing Pliers – https://amzn.to/3SoBmc5
🇨🇦 Canadian link – https://amzn.to/3lUfRUl
Scraper for Separating Parts – https://amzn.to/3YXA2j5
🇨🇦 https://amzn.to/3IpUPoj
Wax Wood Filler – https://amzn.to/3IQzrtX
🇨🇦 https://amzn.to/3XXtH5U
Stain Color Wheel – https://amzn.to/3IQCNNz
🇨🇦 https://amzn.to/3SqV47d

Note: purchases made with these links help contribute to our video production work

OUR NEWSLETTER – Sign up at https://WoodenItBeNice.ca

See the tools we use in our workshop and the tools we recommend: https://www.amazon.com/shop/homeimprovementwoodworking
🇨🇦 Canadian link – https://www.amazon.ca/shop/homeimprovementwoodworking

Fixing Furniture is hosted by Scott Bennett, Owner of Wooden It Be Nice – Furniture Repair in Brooklin, Ontario, Canada. https://WoodenItBeNice.ca

#Chair #Glue

source

27 thoughts on “How to Repair a Broken Rocking Chair – a Restoration by Fixing Furniture #Leather”

  1. Incredible work, Scott! It was great seeing you figure out the leather work in real-time. I have a question. How would you handle a situation where a joint was rock solid but it also had a finishing nail in it? Again, kudos to a job well done!

    Reply
  2. Another great video Scott!. My tip of the day is I have used a Hole plug cutter relating to the size of the nail head to drill around the nail to have 360 deg access to the nail to pull it out. thanks for sharing ECF.

    Reply
  3. Scott you ever try using roll pins to get nails out? Just get a roll pin that just fits over the head of the nail. Put in in your drill and drill around the head of nail the use diagonals to pull nail out.

    Reply
  4. I have a similar chair. I replaced the seat; I think mine is a fiber faux pressed leather. I ground an ice pick into a tiny chisel to make clearance for pliers or pincers to pull nails if I cant get them out any other way. The little pincers, or end nippers, are hand forged ones my grandfather had. They get a good grip.

    Reply
  5. Scott: I learned so many things while watching this video. Those tips and tricks are most beneficial to know whether done for restorations or other crafts. A lot of great information. This restoration job was wonderful to watch. I bet your customer was thrilled when she saw her chair again. Carol from California

    Reply
  6. I was taught to use a punch and drive the finishing nails out, and then fill the hole, either with sawdust and glue if the hole is small, or with a dowel if the hole is larger. Much easier than breaking the piece, which has happened to me on several occasions when I didn't want to take my time.

    Reply
  7. Thanks for your honesty. A lot of youtubers would never leave a mistake on video. I do not think there is really a easy way to get finishing nails from furniture expecially when it is a old nail like that. Perhaps there is specialist old tool for it to minimise the damage but i never seen one.

    Reply
  8. You are doing a fantastic job of restoring, and I enjoy watching.
    One question…did you ever think of using a small plug cutter for getting around the finishing nail? It would do less damage, and create a clean hole you could put a small plug or dowel in.
    Also, a leatherworker told me recently, if you wet the area you are trying to cut, it is easier to cut.

    Reply
  9. Long ago an old fellow told me to stop worrying about mistakes. His theory was the folks who do not make mistakes are the people who do nothing and they never learn anything new. Now here I am, an old man (be 80 in August) and I got to tell you Scott, I try and learn something every day. Keep teaching, you are a natural.

    Reply
  10. A lot of old furniture, especially before roughly 1900, was originally painted, not varnished or shellacked or otherwise treated with what we think of as “wood finishes.” Some people think if they strip the paint off an old piece, they’ll get back to the original look, but as often as not, the paint WAS the original look.

    Reply
  11. How old is this chair?
    The very idea of it having a leather seat seems to me ill advised. Not only that, but the execution of it by the chair maker, in all aspects, on this particular piece couldn’t be worse IMO. It seems like a cheap “out” for not being willing or able to properly contour the seat.

    Reply
  12. i just love your calm demeanor, as a renovation carpenter, i have learned so many tips that actually apply to my job sites, it transcends just furniture restortation, into high end finish carpentery

    Reply
  13. When using a sharp blade on paper/cardboard, I keep pressure on my(left)hand holding the template/straight edge and draw the very sharp blade in my preferred (right) hand numerous times along the hard edge until the cut is cleanly through. I wonder if cutting leather should also require less initial pressure for a single blade pass but several passes for an easier, cleaner cut.

    Reply
  14. I know of course it is too late to tell you now you’ve already been working on it and doing it and it’s probably finished, but I thought I might make a suggestion on your leather when you’re trying to use the scape on it to do an edge. If you take a bottle with water in it and moisten the leather to make it more workable it would be easier to do the ski thing on the edge just like when they do tooling in the leather as well I do some leather work myself and it’s always better if you can to work with the weather as it is soften with water, because once the weather becomes dry, it becomes tough and hard to work with. Of course, that is not going to help you now being that you’re already got the project done probably but I enjoy your tips that you have Scott and look forward to more of them. Keep up the good work.

    Reply

Leave a Comment