This step-by-step video walks you through the process of how to install a shower pan liner. The Oatey PVC Shower Pan Liner is an economical, flexible liner designed for use in tile showers and other concealed waterproofing applications. It’s made of 40 mil thick, flexible PVC sheet and marked in 6 in. increments for easy of measuring. Learn more about the Oatey Shower Pan Liner here: https://www.oatey.com/products/oatey-pvc-shower-pan-liner-kit–240409289?upc=038753416205
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Why not put felt paper below mortar base? So many people have said to do this so that the wood subfloor wont extract all the moisture from the mortar bed. And that's what i've done. Damnit.
So much is wrong with this video. Staple all 3 sides of the curb?! Nice. Now you have penetrated your waterproof membrane. Nothing like rotting out your curb after several years. And no plastic or tar paper under the pre-slope mortar bed? Now the wood will suck up the moisture and cause the mortar bed to dry it uneven. I’m glad Oatey makes good product, but their installation videos stink.
Thank you!
would it leak where the pan was cut for the flange screws?
As an installer this was a nice video. As an installer I will point out a few observations that are never mentioned in videos. 1. on the back corners you are left with 3 layers of vinyl, do you know what that does. That causes your cement board be be bent inwards at the bottom. Tile doesn't like to bend. The solution is you sawsall a fat channel like 1/4" at the back corners so you can tuck the liner behind the wall instead of folding it on the inside where you need to cement board it. 2. Don't cut the liner to the same size as the drain hold. cut a smaller hole about 1" in the center then pizza cut the rest, just 8 slices. The liner will stretch and bend into the drain hole cavity when applying the bolt on threaded thingy. Creating a much better seal. 3. Although you did a great job on the curb. Wood curbs fail because the wood shrinks leaving air space then the grout cracks then the water gets in then the tiles crack. The only solution is a cement curb then you bury the liner in the cement curb which means the first level of mud needs to be installed then you put in your liner as usual but you build the mud curb at the same time and bury the liner only half way into it tapering it up hill.
Latins Donot Install That GARBAGE Liner
Only Concrete Shower Pan And Seal
That’s All And It Will Be For 100 Years Good.
Amén.
Someone please answer this for me . If whatever wall board you're using isn't going to touch the mortar bed how do you tile over the pvc liner
Me in my head (I got this easy) I'm over here sweating bullets taking 3 months finally got the liner on I used recycled styrofoam in my mix with some rock and a little bit of sand an polymer liquid some water more type S it's for an rv so I had too keep it lightweight could have had a taller pan I'm hopeful I can fix that with foam panels more lightweight mix and epoxy will be using magic liquid seal with fish rocks decorated I tryed keeping it all in one piece for the toilet right next too it might have to cut and glue too get a better fit tho
During the leak test @5:00, wouldn't the water slowly drain through the weep holes?
Just moved into a new home, and noticed that when I step onto the shower drain it moves down a bit, house still within warranty period, what is the issue? And how should this be fixed? It's a tiled floor.
I have seen dozens of videos that show the drain sitting up on the plywood about .5” with the molded bolt bottoms sitting directly on the plywood. This shows the hole cut just large enough that those bolts drop down allowing only the lip of the drain to sit on top of the plywood. Which one is correct?
Why must we be subject to this abhorrent soundtrack?
I had to watch this video twice, cutting the Oakley pan liner to fit the curb, and then another pan liner on top is not common practice, Idk why this part is shown.
I still don’t understand how 3/8” of mortar and tile works with the drain cover sitting so high from the liner
Are you supposed to screw the base of the drain right to the floor? I thought you need to leave a gap for the pre-slope?
I wonder who the hell does it this way
Wow look at that it takes the company to show somebody how to do it right LOL, I would take a oscillating tool with a brand new blade and knocked out those three layered sections in the corners of the wood so it recess is back in the woods so your concrete board or foam board or whatever using does not bulge out at the bottom. And I've never done the double curb system but I would like to add you should pitch your curb because when water gets down on top of that liner, and the two-by-four curb is level the water's going to go one way or the other you wanted to go inside the shower so always pitch the two-by-four ittle bit into the shower, also in my opinion X-15 on top of the bottom three piece drain and underneath is the only place X15 or silicone should be, I know you guys use silicone or whatever I think X-15 work better. I've done some tests. Either is fine. I also use a plastic weep hole protector every single shower even if it's linear drain. And at first I was like he stapling through the top of the curb LOL but then you covered it with the second piece, you actually don't need the second piece you just make the same folds and you do the same cut that you did on top of the curb on the outside and the damn corners, also damn Corners are recommended on the outside and inside so we use for now. I constantly have to come in because I'm a tile guy and fix plumbing guys problems putting silicone on top of the liner and then putting the second piece down and screwing and smashing and smearing silicone and clogging the weep holes, so I have to disassemble it before the silicone dries get it all out make sure it works, flood test excetera and these are professional plumbing companies LOL. Most tile guys know how to hook up a shower drain w a y better than most plumbers. Sorry but it's the truth. Great video…… also in the beginning of the video it shows you screwing the bottom piece down to the wood subfloor but that leaves no room for the pre-slope and then your video skips to the pre-slope being done but that's what the little for divots are for on the bottom of that piece of bottom drain it's a half-inch room to accept half inch concrete for the pre slope