Learn how to build deck stairs for your Trex® deck. Get more information at: https://cur.lt/coh4j96mr and build the deck of your dreams.
Key moments in this video:
00:00 Intro
1:00 Determining the Stringer Rise and Run
7:00 Mark and Cut Stair Stringers
13:22 Stair Header Install
15:45 Stair Newel Post Layout
18:52 Install Temporary Layout / Support Block
22:34 Install Outside Stringers
23:05 Placing the Concrete Pad Form
28:41 Squaring and Securing the Concrete Pad Form
33:22 Install Bottom Newel Posts
38:07 Stringers to Header Connection
39:50 Add Trex® Protect™ to Stringers
40:50 Installing Treads and Risers
43:03 Installing Stringer Fascia
45:46 Recap
source
When adding that bottom rim-board it looks like that would add 1 1/2 to the run on the bottom step. I think you would need to cut the bottom run on the stringer an 1 1/2 shorter to allow for that.
Just to make sure that I didnt miss, other than the straps, do the stringers have any other connection to the header?
You state that the end run of the stairs is 33 3/4 inches by multiplying 11 1/4 inch tread by 3. You later state that the stringer will have a 10 inch run per step. That doesn't compute. The run is 30 inches with a 1 1/4 nosing only at the end so the end of your stair will be 31 1/4 not 33 3/4. This should be corrected.
Should the stringers have the shims before installing the fascia boards?
Thanks for the video
Good job folks
can i do one step and one side rail, bottom step, left side going up, to save money? a patch up job ..
Hi watching this full video I learned more, Thank you for teaching us brothers!
Did you cut 1 1/2" off of the front of the risers to account for the front rim board?
Excellent tutorial on the installation of this product. The woman talking through her nose was very similar to the sound of finger nails scratching across a chalkboard. I had to mute it every time she talked, very annoying.
I really enjoyed this project. Made it simple and explained the meaning for all the numbers. Great job both of you!
Those are some sweet gloves
There's such an easier way to do this..
Great set of videos. I wish you finished them though with how to put the siding back on the house and tie it in with the new deck. How do you do that when you have vynil Siding??
This is a nicely done series. However they really breezed over a lot of the details on this one. Like how to hide the cut edges of the material on the ends of treads and cut facia. Looks like they just left it.
No need to square end of 2×12 in order to cut stronger
The deck boards being used as treads should be biscuit jointed in order to not be faced screwed.
A good rule of thumb is to always go beyond what code requires…I never go above 7-3/8 for a step rise
where do learn how to build trex decking I am interested
Goddamn, that deck cost a million dollars
How tall from the decking should the bottom post be?
I don’t remember you mentioning the wide of the stairs?
I do not know why the fascia was not installed first on the stair sides and then let the treads and risers lop over the reveal of the side fascia. It would appear a lot cleaner in my opinion.
Im trying to find specific information on the screw sizes used on this project? Help please?
Not only do these boards cost a lot more but you have to add more boards to deck. And the frame under will rot in 10 years. Why pay this much for these deck boards?
Why not install the fascia on the stringers first and then install the risers and step boards so they hid the edge of the fascia showing?
It looks like you didn't leave a Gap between the riser and deck boards for draining and contraction
Why seal the cut edges if your using tape to protect them? Seems unnecessary.
@TheTrexCo You are using Simpson Strap-Ties (@strongtie) wrong! Those are NOT made for supporting a stringer to a header @38:33. They have a different one made for stringer supports. You have potentially 206K viewers that are making stairs with the wrong support.
Is there another option instead of fascia for covering the vertical part of the riser? Fascia would be pretty expensive for a large number of risers. Couldn't square trex enhance boards be used with one at 5.4 inches and another piece ripped to cover the remainder?
Great instruction team, but seven stringers is overkill——
Does Trex make the risers?
I feel like all the youtube biulding channels do things way over board is it just me or have I always done things wrong lol
This is a good introduction but they are wrong on a couple things. For example all the decks need slope so the total rise should be measured with a level. Not a clamped 2×4 to your sloped deck.
I don’t like your idea for the facia on the stairs sides . I think it would look better if you had cut them to be under the run or treads . Did you treat the bottom of the posts for the railings? Thanks for the video.
Wished I'd have kept my bulldozer to drive up the steps with all those stringers. I've built a ton of stuff through the years and in this video I've learned not what to do. This is all overkill and pretty boring in my opinion. Nail the crap together and in 20 years people will want to replace it anyways.
I don't understand why you build stairs and then obstruct them with posts in the stairs. You lost over a foot of the stair width and it does not look good.
Was that a 2x for the header with a 4×4. Won't a 5" screw be poking out the back 0.5"
There is so much sexual tension between these two lol
When measuring & cutting stringers, don't you need to subtract the width of the rim board from the run of the bottom step?
When I see safety glasses, ear plugs, gloves, for this lightweight job I turn it off. That concrete demo equipment !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
A better way is to use the building code that is 2R+T=24".
how deep should the newel (stair posts) be in the ground? My county code for decks does not say anything about rail posts in the ground.
Help me understand how the bottom to buy rim board on the steps doesn’t make the last bottom stair deeper. How does it stay at 10 inches?