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Video Link: https://youtu.be/AlG68LXJmwo
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Always cut away from your hand NOT towards it kids.
It's a bit ridiculous that the mars 3 doesn't come with an Allen key the right size to replace the FEP
I love the vat design. The process descriptions are…odd. 😉
Thank you
Does this not require tuning?
The "squash"? I think I understand…?
how thick should the foam be?
I’ve did all this and the screws never tighten !
with the high dollars we spend on these you would think the spacer would be part of what you buy. I spent 45.00 of the feb only to find out now I need to monkey rig a way to use it. Really need to think about those who buy the products and not run things on the cheap on your end we are paying high dollars for just 5 sheets
I didn't use the/a foam sponge. Is that bad? Ord what's it's purpose?
I can’t seem to get the first set of bolts off, they’re all completely. Stuck. What can I do about this?
Where do we get the right fep from? I’ve only seen 3rd party on Amazon Australia and don’t know which is the right one to get.
My mars 3 pro didn’t come with any spares.
When cutting off the FEP excess material, please remember to cut away from yourself not towards yourself as presented here.
omg, cant watch here using the knife against here hand! Pleas dont do it that way! Always use the knife away from your hand!!!
The text in the video says a 50x35x5mm piece of foam but, based on how the foam actually shown being used is wider than the center three holes at the top of the squash, that looks like an 80x70mm piece mentioned in previous Mars videos (those being stated as 8mm thick rather than 5mm). So which set of dimensions are correct for the Mars 3 tanks? What is written or what is actually used? Thanks!
ALWAYS CUT AWAY FROM YOU WITH A KNIFE
^desperately needs to be added to this video.
So there's no need to puncture holes in the FEP for the Mars 3. Do the screws just puncture it themselves?
It's like putting a new head on a drum and tuning it. Lol
quick question, I locked the 4 final corner screws in first anyone think that would make a difference? The FEP was still very tight and seemed right.
So no tuning, just a foam piece? By God Ive been struggling way to hard to understand how to properly do this x)
super annoyed just got my printer and it arrived with an almost pen sized hole in the fep and no spare sheets, but at least replacing it doesn’t seem too much of a pain…..
So that piece of foam to relieve tension looks important. Was it supposed to come with the machine or the FEP sheet?
Because I didn't get one with my Mars3 pro. I noticed that protective foam in the box the FEP came with is 5mm.
Could I cut a rectangle from it?
Also are the dimension in the description correct for a Mars3 Pro vat?
Thank you
Never cut toward yourself. 🙂
Also, shouldn't it be tightened in a cross-weave pattern (top left, bottom right, top right, bottom left, etc.?)
I would recommend wearing gloves.
There is a tone analyzer somewhere on the internet that when you thump the FEP and record it to this analyzer, it will give a precise tone if you have done it correctly.
Love the video!!!!
Why would they make these hex screws instead of Philips or even flathead. Jesus
Had to change my FEP – and it's easy. Lots of screws…
What is that foam, how thick it is
Where do I get "the foam" from?
When I tighten the screws they won't punch a hole through the film and I'm going to end up stripping the hex head on the screw. What do I do? @elegoo official
This is not a good tutorial
I replace my Elegoo Mars 3 pro FEP fairly frequently. (User carelessness, not the machine or Elegoo's fault.) I don't have foam laying around for a spacer, with that said, I use a stack of 32 fresh playing cards as my spacer, and it works great. 32 playing cards as a spacer. This is a reminder for myself and a tip for others. I found that tip on Reddit, I think.
Je n ai pas trouvé, avez-vous vous les valeurs recommandées du serrage au couple svp ?
2:05 oh so you have to peel a protective layer, i didn`t noticed :/
Cutting I generally use X-acto knives anyway, and I tighten in a criss-cross pattern by initially running the screws in until all the screws are seated and then torquing to ensure an even tension. Just like you would do when setting up an Engine head or tightening tires to the hub. I used dental tools to pop the FEP, which I actually use to remove supports and clean up any nubs left over from printing. The foam looks like some I used to extrude when I worked in plastic foams; I would say it would be 1/4" x 2" x 2". I just had that foam as a sheet hanging around, and it would have been the same foam from the original Printer packaging.