Fixing plastic problems can be very expensive when all you want to do is use your heater or AC. See what’s going on in your dash and why does it costs so much to repair. ➡️ Don’t forget to check out @MrsWizardsWays and the latest batch of her custom ‘Partworks’ artworks on eBay thru 2/14/2024: https://www.ebay.com/usr/davidthecarwizard
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Have changed actuators out on numerous vehicles. Cost an average of $30-40 a piece on RockAuto. Not a big deal.
Who the flip is paying hundreds and thousands of dollars for this fix 🤔
Ahh cabin filters…diy 10 bucks at the dealer $100
Here's what a customer did to solve these issues in a Dodge truck. He bought the kit for aluminum doors. But didn't want to replace the motors as it had only 50k. Then around 78k motors crapped out. He went and got throttle cable type push and pull cables, made a plate out of aluminum and hooked wires up to the doors and now does his HVAC manually. 1st I thought WTF, after some thinking and dash removals, it's not a bad idea. Yes still has codes for HVAC but now never any worries. And don't look bad either. I recall in 80s as a kid ppl had none of these issues cause all was ran this way. So if u want just make it simple. Some dash removals are insane, some not so bad. But never fun at all. Not a right fix for all but for a beater, older auto etc good idea.
Lube tech here….I'm no mechanic but I spend all day around cars. I can confidently say that modern cars are designed to be quickly replaced, not repaired. These new vehicles are overpriced, plastic trash. Shame on the automakers for producing a whole line of defective crap.
I have been doing the repairs on my own vehicles since the first car that I have owned. Just to give you an idea as to for how long I have been doing this, it was a 1963 Pontiac Grand Prix. Back then you did not have to spend much on the tools needed to completely disassemble the engine and put it back together again or even to work on the entire car. (Any machining work had to be sent out). A small standard socket set, a few wrenches, a couple of screw drivers, some slip joint pliers and a crescent style wrench was pretty much all you needed. You did need a timing light light, a dwell meter and a vacuum gauge that you no longer need with today's cars, but even those tools were rather inexpensive. I do admit that keeping a car running well back then was pretty much a constant job, but the work was easy enough to do. I have spent a few thousand dollars on more tools over the years just to be able to keep up with working on the modern vehicles, and nearly everything is harder to work on now than it was "back in the day". At least one, good bi-directional scan tool, not just a code reader, is a must to have these days. That is unless you just like throwing parts at a car, and even that might not solve the problem, by just chasing a code. Trouble shooting today's cars goes far beyond just checking for spark, fuel and compression. Yes, those remain the basics, but so many other things can have an impact on each one of these that did not exist "back in the day".
Why do I work on my own cars? I am mechanically inclined, finding a knowledgeable and reputable repair shop can cost you a lot of money before you find one and I have never liked to pay someone else for work that I can do myself. In all honesty, working on today's cars is not for the faint of heart, but it does have its rewards. I also have a new a new tool that was not really available to me 20 years ago. I have the internet and it has people that will tell and show how to work on today's cars. "Back in the day" we had to buy repair manuals for each car we would work on. Haynes and Chiltons were the "go to" ways of getting repair information.
For an inexpensive, relatively speaking, bi-directional scan tool, I have and use the XTool D8. It comes with 3 years of free updates and XTools is constantly bring out new updates. Perhaps even Wizard has one? No, I am not sponsored by anyone. I am just an old, shade tree mechanic.
Clean, clear, and concise as always.
Yep ,that $150 an hour you charge is what pisded me off bad enough to force myself to tear the dash apart myself to replace my mercedes stepper motor …and it was a nightmare. Did I win anything ? Yes ,l didn't pay you the $150 an hour to do the job for me.But i wish I would have
Former high school English teacher. I had a 94 jetta and the heater core went out. Took me 2 1/2 days to re and re the part (68.00 CDN) Had to remove dash, seats, carpeting (which was soaked in anti freeze) centre console and drop the steering column. I figure I saved about 1000.00 This would have been back around 2006 or so. I bought the most expensive heater core they had. Didn't want to do that job twice. That car was pretty good, but also forced me to learn to do brakes, timing belts, suspension, cvt shafts… Good times.
it’s called Planned Obsolescence by the MFG. they know there building 💩
I recall a time when they said plastic was the wonder stuff that would not rot and last forever. Wrong! nature once again showed us who is the boss.
Thanks for the video and Stay safe ✌️.
I am so glad my 2005 Scion has manual, cable-operated HVAC. I don't want none of those stupid motorized actuators, thank you very much.
junk toyota and honda is over rated, my Corolla hade that issue
Note to self: car wash business opportunities in Kansas.
Manufacturers do this on purpose so they can dip into your pocket for repairs and parts typically they figure that you will take it to the dealership so they can get you on the purchase price and then repair it’s all about $$$$$
I live in Sweden so its commonly pretty cold. There is a big difference in the quality of the plastic used in proper japanese cars (Mazda, Toyota, Honda and Suzuki) vs German cars. On Japanese cars the plastic is much less brittle in low temperatures, its possible to work with even in the cold. Cheap plastics on German cars just snapps on you. This is trend gets even more pronounced as the cars age.
I am a serious, DIYer and I have tackled this before. On an old ML 320 the entire dash had to come apart to get to the blend door motor. Yes, it is a chore. But I enjoy turning wrenches, and I love these videos because the wizard actually tells me how much money I save:-)
50 years bodyman been complaining about plastic for 50 years
this is what happens when you put computers in control of things that worked great with just a mechanical cable and linkage.
I don't have this problem,….my old classic car uses a manual cable.
Just went through this with a tarus real SOB to get at. Ford dealer quoted 800 for the job I fixed it myself in a hour and a half
Yes, my 1995 Buicks, the Park Avenue and Roadmaster don't have cabin air filters. I remove the little mounting bracket and clean it out once a year. But yeah, some don't have them
In the case of my Volvo S70, the door locks use motors like you show for airflow dampers… Why would one design a motor when a simple solenoid pair shuttling a magnet would work more reliably
I live in new england and my heater is not working …i know it will be much $$ to repair, so i am not fixing it …i just bought winter gloves and hat and said funk it. I use to play for hours in the snow when i was a kid..doesnt bother me to drive and hour or so without heat. Spring around the corner 😂
In 2020 I sold my 2005 Camry that I bought new. Fifteen years of ownership and 218,000 miles…everything worked perfectly fine. In fact…I NEVER had to have the AC serviced!
@ his last story. Buy an inverter and a small heater. 😅
Meanwhile the cables on my 1986 K5 are still working.
many vw's use plastic water pumps lol. if they break up it's goodbye motor.
NO ENGINE PARTS SHOULD ME MADE OF PLASTIC.
I’ve said it many times…… The manufacturers are only trying to get the car over the Finnish line of a warranty, perhaps even 100k miles. They also want to make the costs to repair such that people will throw their hands up and go buy a new vehicle.
My climate control in my 88 LTD it all vacuum in the early panther cars the A/C hinge is plastic and break over time the fix is a metal hinge but the trick is getting the box out from under the dash
For safety regulations?
Because heaven forbid we use a control rod or cable.
I'm not necessarily against the use of plastic, I'm against the use of cheap plastic, where stronger plastic is a necessity!
Plastics save the MANURES millions of dollars each year. Quality and longevity aren’t in their interest. I’m in manufacturing as I know the game. I’m not proud of of it.
They won’t care unless they are made to care. The whole industry is a wealth of trillions the govt could fine them all over carbon emissions caused by low quality parts. They just have to wrap it up nicely into proper green legalese.
Well done, this was happening to a car I was looking to, buy walk away, little clicking sound can't be much can it???
I have a 2008 MDX with 200,000 miles. There is one of those motors/doors under that dash that goes "Whirrrr-klunk!" repeatedly, over and over, all the time. But since all of the heat and AC stuff seems to work fine, that motor will continue to go "Whirrrr-klunk!" forever as I am not going to replace it.
Overly engineered – under designed.