BOTH my Rover P6s get alternators…



In my never ending quest to get and keep my pair of Rover P6s on the road, both the 2000 and 3500 (4600) and currently its electrical gremlins doing their bit to stop that…

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50 thoughts on “BOTH my Rover P6s get alternators…”

  1. The world of eBay Matt… F#ck em! I basically had to get rid of my Fiat Stilo Schumacher as eBay sellers kept sending the wrong headlights after promising they were correct… After the 5th one I just gave up. No MOT due to light alignment.. Sent it to scrappy and they auctioned it for me… eBay account shut down and deleted for ever… Grrrr hate hate hate….

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  2. The "box" on the alternator is a capacitor. You can drive without it, but makes the gauges work twitchy (at least in my car it does that) – the capacitor evens out the voltage spikes. It needs to be bolted to a ground.

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  3. Nice one Matt, one of the P6's is running again and hopefully closer to getting th 2000 going as well. I noticed the oil pressure gauge was back in the middle at the end of the video which is good. 'Pattern' parts as they used to be called (maybe they still are I don't know) always used to be a lottery back in the day and I'd guess it's got worse in recent decades. I bought some pattern stuff to replace bits on motor bikes and gave up in the end as they just didn't fit and ended up buying genuine bits at frankly stupid prices. When the genuine parts dry up it becomes a greater challenge. Many thanks for sharing.

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  4. As you've probably guessed by now, the multiplicity of different fiddly sizes are to stop people like you buggaring abaht wiv fings you shouldn't be and make you take it to someone (expensive) to keep them gainfully employed. 😁 for shame😂

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  5. The regulator and rectifier you have are completely wrong for that alternator, they fit Lucas 16-18 ACR, not yours , the sockets are a BA size, i used to recondition alternators and have done hundreds of Lucas alternators, cheers Andy

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  6. You need to buy the farm, Matt. By which I mean you need to move to a de-landed farmhouse that still has a significant sized barn (or series of useful outbuildings) – ever consider moving to the north of England where your house value would probably get you something of the sort?

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  7. To check the warning light circuit, earth the small brown and yellow wire on the alternator plug with the ignition turned on and if the wiring is okay, it should light up, if not, you have a wiring fault from the alternator to the dash, if it does work, the alternator is at fault although it is charging, the light has to work to excite the field circuit, :), just thought it may have a warning light control unit, looks like an old flasher unit round aluminium unit, normally has a green label on it to say what it is, that new alternator probably wont need it but there might be a small modification to do to the wiring, cant just remember, long time since i worked on that type of charging system.

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  8. 12:55 Yep no more returning old units to where they came from. Amazes me at how many items be it alternators, starter motors, calipers etc we just throw in the scrap metal. Clearly in our case Napa Auto parts can churn out every conceivable part for such cheap (quality is sometimes questionable!!!!!) prices it just isn't worth them having the old stuck back. Very environmentally friendly!!!

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  9. All the old british electrical's are b.a. sizes although being small sizes, metrics usually work OK. I take it you haven't yet looked for the ignition relay for the warning light. I have in the past got around the lug issue with alternators by removing the 3 long bolts holding the alternator together, then you can twist the casing around till the lugs are in the right place and refit the bolts

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  10. I know you’re into saving money. So it is always worth a shot if you have the time. However as a mechanic I don’t really like it when people try & save a few ££ on really important items. Alternators & brakes etc are always best bitting the bullet & spending the extra for replacement parts.

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  11. Wrong handed Lucas alternator? Remove the though bolts and rotate the housing. Hey presto, opposite handed alternator. Many motor factors only stocked one hand (cheaper that way) and flipped them to suit.

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  12. MY FRIEND, YOU'V GOT TOO MUCH ON YOUR PLATE.YOU SHOULD ONLY ACQUIRE TWO OR THREE CAR'S AND FIX THEM PROPERLY.THAN MOVE ONTO NEW PROJECTS ,,,,,,PLEASE FORGIVE ME FOR BEING INTRUSIVE.
    HOW IS THE ROVER 75 GETTING ON ? I've been a regular audience of your videos for last apprx 3 years.

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  13. Well, ye learn summat new every day, Didn't know there was no swap on alternators . That will no doubt be our asian friends again. Your not the only one whose had faulty issues with new parts.. ME 2. Anyways good bit of chasing finally gets you the right parts. Next thing will be the yankee bus on the road. I am still curious to see what it costs to put that on the load. Thanks for vid. Coffee time Later.

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  14. Older alternators (the 11AC) used a field isolation relay and a bi-metallic warning lamp control unit coded 3AW. Treat the latter mentioned unit as you would a bi-metallic flasher unit. Both are connected to the Al terminal on the alternator. Also used the 4TR regulator. There is a separate switch combined with the ignition switch. Had a Haynes manual for the P6. Was revised in the late 60's when the ACR series became available.

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