Blasting the Morris Mini shell #2…This is HARD!



Ive been working my way through media blasting the 1969 Morris Mini shell, and itโ€™s not as easy as it looks! Its getting there, and weโ€™re finding good and bad, and built a new spray booth

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47 thoughts on “Blasting the Morris Mini shell #2…This is HARD!”

  1. Blasting and sanding dust is insidious and a total pain. I hope you are able to wash the cars at the barn. Using the vac fitting on the DA would help. As you said, this is really a job that is best left to the pros. A bit expensive but a good exchange for channel content IMO.

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  2. Hard work but will be worth itโ€ฆdonโ€™t you need a โ€œcamping awningโ€ off market place..?

    Something Iโ€™m sure you would know the answer toโ€ฆ..apparently the 2x large holes, one in the bulkhead and the other in the rearโ€ฆapparently Miniโ€™s were built with a large shaft through there and the shell rotated around to aid assembly โ€ฆ? ๐Ÿค”

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  3. Your sand blasting efforts are admirable….apart from the blocking issues you are having seems to me the jet from nozzle could be better, seems as if it is putting out a jet, other sand blasting i have seen the jet is a fan. Same idea as jet wash, not sure if you can adjust the nozzle but suggest if you can get a fan shaped jet you'd get the job done quicker…

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  4. I would have it dipped, personally I think the advanges of dipping far outweigh the dissadvantages of future paint problems around seams. Perhaps I am watching this just thinking how long it.s going to take compared to all your other projects. Full marks for determination

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  5. It's like project masochism and even watching is slighly painful! If if ever gets finished all you have is a MIni and having owned such things in my early 20s all I can say is rather you than me!

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  6. Lo Matt, all the bits iv'e seen that need repair are bits that is always going wrong. Watched big EDD a few years back and he completely hacked one to bits and found that there was not a lot of good bits left. The problem with minis is that they got a great press(Paddy Hopkirk ) and all that but a couple of years down the line and people realised that they were rust buckets.Rust free ones of that era are rare. Good luck with that one . Once again your refusal to be beaten is commendable. Laters ๐Ÿ™ƒ

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  7. Hope you are going to keep the paint original by using cellulose, yes know it's hard work to keep a shine on it and it doesn't like many modern polishes, one has to use a pure wax which has to be reapplied after every wash. It was bloody hard work keeping a humble car looking like a limousine.
    A gate valve is the old type stop cock on your water main, they can seize, mine has so have to isolate the water at the meter in the street, so a ball valve the best option, a large diameter one though, at least 3/4".

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  8. For somebody who prefers Manual transmission an Automatic Mini is strange choice, I find them disappointing compared to manual ones. Please beg a drive in a 998cc Auto before you finally decide not to convert to manual.

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  9. check the heel board (where the front of the rear subframe bolts on to) there will probably be a fair bit of grot there. This is the repair that causes many mini's to 'crab' down the road.

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  10. When I started in the job , like 40 years ago it was not unusual to grind off rust , grind the heart of the active rust , dimple it , treat it with a corrosion inhibitor and then use glass fibre filler if it was perforated and then Body filler and maybe fine stopper to smooth the damage out , this was routine on seventies / eighties stuff sometimes multiple areas on one panel , As my game moved on [ and the job and the repair materials changed ] I was now putting metal where the fillers went , but still you needed to use filler to remove imperfection or get some shape back , as good as you are with metal it is no insult to use fillers just be sure it gets no moisture from behind , good metal work you just use less filler , it is what it is applied over that counts .

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  11. My wee MK 4 Mini (AUTO) OOOOOOOOOOHH gets picked in a couple of weeks after 12 years off the road. to get what ever it needs. 1. I'm not physically able 2. I cant be arsed 3. But yer videos scaring the living outta me………Awk its only money

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  12. Pale yellow (Mimosa?) would be nice.๐Ÿ‘

    Idle thought……
    Someone must be selling a cheap Gazebo somewhere? Or even giving one away on Freegle at this time?

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  13. Some great progress Matt, uncovering more issues now is far better than finding them out after a full repaint. I remember my 1st Mini, a 76 model 1000 that was so way beyond its best before I got it in the 80's. The gearbox had lost synchro on 2nd and drove with less urgency than a slug going up hill with a bad back on salt. It was my 1st car and I knew little better at the time. The front floor had more perforations than a teabag that I only noticed after removing the continually drenched carpets (well if you could call what was left a carpet) that if you put an inspection lamp under the car we had stars showing inside the roof! I had new front floors done but the car moved on some months later. Many thanks for sharing.

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  14. Well done Matt. This is my favourite car on the channel, and it's going to be a delight to behold when it's finished. It will be worth the effort, these cars are so special…

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  15. Nice to see another video on the mini Matt. That lower quarter repair section is very common to see. I imagine there is loads of head distortion hence the filler. Looking forward to seeing more on this ๐Ÿ‘ this car at rustival! Do it!

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  16. For future reference, a wire wheel on a grinder would have chomped through that filler in seconds, itโ€™s what I have had to do in the past. DIY sandblasters are notoriously crap for big jobs like that, good for the odd part / panel but not for a whole car. All good with hindsight I knowโ€ฆ maybe in future tell us what youโ€™re planning to do and ask for advice before you start, that might save you days of painโ€ฆ

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  17. I knew it would be dirty and destroy the barn but that's just because I worked in a factory that did things like you….the try it and see method ๐Ÿ˜ we eventually got a truck container and it was used for mucky jobs so the rest of the place didn't suffer ๐Ÿซก
    Those were the days before h&s was even thought of, us culchies just got on with it.
    The new lean-to would have worked but i guess your posh neighbours would moan…๐Ÿ™„๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡ช

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  18. I don't really see the point of that Clarke cylinder. My blast setup just has the gun, a rubber hose going onto a steel pipe which pokes into a bucket of sand. I think keeping the blast media in a closed vessel will mean any dampness will be unable to evaporate off.

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  19. You will find compressing the air will produce moisture. So drain the compressor every night after use. I modified my compressor using an oil cooler to cool the air as it left the compressor and before it entered the reservoir. It worked almost perfectly and my water trap removes to small amount left. A gate valve is a type of tap, normally brass with a compression fitting each side (but there are other designs) screwing the tap knob lifts and lowers a flat piece of brass that stops the flow (this is the gate bit). Sorry but it's hard to describe one without a picture.

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  20. If U ever decide to bare metal another car,save. A fortune using fibre stripping discs on a grinder.theyre about ยฃ20 for a pack of 5.they removed filler and paint,but don't mark the metal.i stripped my A30,and used 4 discs.i did make the suggestion in an early video.

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