3D Printed Molds for Casting 3D Prints!



Let’s see if we can make our own 3D Printed Mold Boxes that we can pour silicone into for casting or melting 3D Prints!

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Thanks for watching!

#3DPrinting #moldmaking #3dprinter

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24 thoughts on “3D Printed Molds for Casting 3D Prints!”

  1. I've never had great results by using the rice measurement technique. But I will say that you will get a lot closer by using it as a way to measure volume, not weight.
    Silicones vary in weight and for a weight measurement to work your silicone would have to weight the same as the rice. Go with volume. You'll get better results.
    But it'll still be off. lol

    Reply
  2. If you really wnat to reuse PLA waste perhaps you could put the plastic chips into a bucket with holes or mesh in the bottom, so when they melt fully they drain out the bottom into the mold? or just melt it in the bucket and stir until fully melted and just pour it. you'd probably have to melt it in temperature stages so that it doesn't scorch.

    Reply
  3. Pressure cookers often require water in order to build up pressure, that water and vapor may interact with the melting plastic, which we all know doesnt like humidity. Plus most pressure cookers only apply a max of 15 psi, which has a temperature of 257 F (125 C if you are using imported water), as opposed to the normal 212 of water boiling at standard pressure.
    This is more than many filament's glass transition temperatures, but lower than their melting temperature and considerably lower than nozzle temperature.

    Estimate of chance of success is low.

    I would recommend instead a vacuum chamber to be used as soon as the plastic comes out of the oven. Get them as hot as possible to make them liquid, then simply suck all the air out. Note, design a mold with a raised edge to account for the expansion of the liquid and bubbles while under vacuum. Chance of failure due to the filament solidifying due to taking too long and the drop of temperature from a decrease in pressure. Make sure to repressurize once the filament starts to thicken.

    Also note, when making a mold, use a volume instead of weight to determine how much resin and or silicone is needed, it is more accurate as rice has air gaps and is a different density than resin and/or, and those materials often have a variety of densities across brands

    Reply
  4. You really should get a vacuum chamber to de-gas the silicone. Oomoo is nice in that you can get by without de-gassing it, but you still get little bubbles on the part that have to be cleaned up.

    Reply
  5. @UncleJessy Just a heads up if you go to cast a resin print, make sure to do a small test with the molding first. Some resins have sulfur in them that, prevents the molds from curing, and I know how expensive those silicone molds can get 👍

    Reply
  6. The only problem Unci-Jesse is that they are ONE (1) PART MOLDS (!)*
    (* I.e. Meaning when you CAST them: One side will require a ton of clean-up/sanding etc. & won't be formed to the design of the Mold.

    Ideally You want a TWO PART MOLD (OR even 3 Pt. Mold: that's how 99.9% of things we buy are made)

    Reply
  7. To know how much silicone you need for the mold you could just take the 3d printed piece and put it on a scale, tare it, and fill it with water. Much more precise and quick, and doesn't waste rice

    Reply
  8. Those look like bubbles released out of the silicone itself. Notice how you have zero bubbles on top!
    It's a thermo-chemical reaction. Either due to some mold release or again, because of the silicone itself.
    Low degassing silicone is a must in this case, or proper degassing before use. You should try with preheating.

    Reply
  9. Kinda funny to think that you make a mold for a mold. My sister wants me to make a mold, but worry avout how no filament is flexible enough to make a mold. Thought of making one on a video resin printer, but it's currently not plugged in and there is no room to do the possessing. But this right here is perfect. Going to try this out. It's a mold for candle wax by the way.

    Reply
  10. Why not melt everything down into the mold like you did and then before pulling it out put some resin in there and let it fill in all the holes? Stick it in a vacuum chamber to pull out the air. You'll use a lot less resin as the scrap pla will fill up a lot of the volume.

    Reply
  11. I wonder if there was some kind of out-gassing at the mold surface that created the bubbles. The top was nice and smooth. I'd be interested to see if this worked out better the second time. If the bubbles are smaller, it may be helpful to run the molds through a heat cycle before using them.

    Something else occurred to me last night. The mold release. Is it meant to be used with hot casting or just cold casting. like resin. It could be flashing to a gas causing the bubbles also.

    Reply

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