Driving a car in winter can be hard on the components and the salt on the roads can corrode and rust the chassis. Especially on modern classics that are still likely to be used as daily drivers.There are some key things you can do to protect your car while you use it in winter. Use a under-seal on the chassis, make sure brake fluid is fresh, wax wheel and bodywork and clean regularly.
Tayna Car Batteries are fantastic and supply all my car batteries! Use the code NUMBER27YT for a further 5% off! – https://www.tayna.co.uk
18
source
Me and my Dad used to paint the underside of the car with old engine oil. This was based on the bits of the chassis with oil fumes from the engine never seemed to rust.
How to apply RainX zzzzzzzz. Who is this aimed at???
Some decent advice there Jack, I once bought a used car that had been professionally Waxoiled from new and there wasn't a spot of rust anywhere, I really don't understand why people don't have this done when they are spending so much money on a brand new car, which is the second biggest purchase after a house…but I guess they get it on a 3 year PCP contract, so they return it after that time, so they don't care about the car when it's a few years older, which I find a shame, we need to be preserving our older cars not kicking them to the curb, that's properly environmentally aware, which the Government think we should all be doing… so lets keep our old cars 😁
My winter proof my car over winter is to leave it in a dry garage
Good advice! Now you could park your "better" car in a storage and get a winter car of much lesser value It would be better like your 308! in the long run.
Good tips, for sure, Jack. However, Whiteland Restorations have a more comprehensive, and arguably better, video on the same topic. Fish oil also dries clear but it films over, making it semipermanent.
This was great much appreciated i wince at how much punishment cars get at this time of year and dread looking underneath my classic !
Those rust protection kits never work , to really protect the car you need to do what Ian from Hubnut does and literally inject the wax underseal into the innards of the vehicle and under the body , he goes to Crown rust proofing , you pay them £350 and the car is good for a few years
I have a tip, for the cleanest clearest windows on your car 🚗 use NEWSPAPER 📰, it's an ink thing, crush/scrunch a few pages together type deal, then make a smooth pad and warm water after you have shampooed everything 🤟 deep blue inky sheen looks MINT
Thanks, this is really great! – Only thing I'd add would be the use of goggles! Also, ACF50 works great as a protective undercoating that needs topping up
I tend to give a quick spray of satin black rust paint to anything I can reach when I swap summer mags to winter (and any time a wheel is off). Easier to wire wheel paint off a bolt then rust!
Good guide 🙂
Canada here. Such a cute "winter" prep, Jack. Bless your little heart! 😁 Here in the Glorious People's Republic of Canuckistan, there is only one option for preparing anything you consider a classic: put it away in the garage until Spring! But we do an amped-up version of your prep for our daily drivers, if we want them to last more than a few years. Those of us that are serious about it have an annual treatment with something like Krown Rustproofing. It is a mostly transparent product that will be sprayed quite heavily onto and into the chassis and structural members, doors, boot lid etc, by a crew of professionals. Cost is around $140 CDN per year (90 quid, or so?). No sense waxing our alloy wheels, as they will have been replaced with dedicated winter tires, on steel wheels, to be swapped back in Spring. Alloy wheels that go through the winter salt would corrode to chalk, and will develop slow leaks around the bead area. And even with all of this, winter use is incredibly hard on any car you care about. I like to describe it as spending 8 months a year lavishing our cars with loving care, and then 4 months beating them with sticks (snow brushes). Cheers from the Great White North.
Why not remove the spare wheel, check for condition and pressure while spraying the recess it sits in.
Having used RainX for plus 25 years, I come to the conclusion that it doesn’t work with every car/wiper/windscreen combo. On some cars it is terrible and just plain dangerous, while on other cars it works perfectly.
Hi Jack, biggred sell kits to repair callipers, you get new pistons, seals, gators etc in the kit for a pair of callipers. There not to pricey either.
My number 1 tip for protecting your classic car from rain and snow is to live in Australia!
Lanoguard is good. I have tested it on bare steel with surface rust. After three years it is still bare steel with surface rust. Annual application seems to be good. Apply in the summer during dry weather, drive the car first to dry it out. Salt on roads should be classed as criminal damage, good winter tyres negate the need for salt.
before the application of such stuff to the underbody I would take take it to the automatic car wash that washes the underside – less salt and grime in there before brushing, otherwise – good advice, even on NEW cars as the quality has dropped some good time ago and we need to protect these newer cars too (have a look under your 2010+ car and you'll see a lot of surface rust)
Great tips Jack but what the jiggery is happening with the Pantera scammer situation?? Was looking forward a follow-up vid including footage from an Australian SWAT team etc 😆
93.7! Closin’ in!!
Jack, rainx do a screen wash Halfords sell it in 5 litre containers, I use it on my own car 👍
I've used a mixture of linseed oil & paint thinner for undercoating. I thinned the oil enough to use it in a spray gun, and gave the entire underside a liberal coating, re-applied every year or two. Seems to work here in southern Ontario where salt is ever present from November to April.
Nice job Jack 👍
Not to be picky Jack but you should have taken the spare down to get above it
Why does the UK still insist on throwing car cancer salt everywhere? There have been better options for decades. Not to mention where all that salt goes in the eco system. Makes ULEZ look even more of a joke than it already is. 🙄
Are all your road management officials and politicians shareholders in new car companies or something? 💵
Hi, I do rate Lanoguard. Used for 8 years now and even kept Landie chassis mint.
I’ve just had all my suspension bits done underneath. My friend used bilt hammer hydrate 80 rust conversion followed by lanoguard 48 hours later. Defo reassuring to know underneath is treated and protected.
I was thinking about this having just got an mx5 definitely want to protect underneath
Well done Jack, this was spot on. Mid West USA here, on a quiet night you can hear the cars rusting. Ive used fluid film, seems to work well and hangs in there, NEVER use an undercoating, any brand ends up having rust hidden underneath. I purposely installed an outdoor hot water spigot on my house to rinse the underside of the car, then I am able to park all my cars inside. I never drive any of my classics in winter.
Not a criticism Jack but it would be a good practice to wear Google’s and a face mask when scrubbing top rust from under the car. Good work otherwise though.
Great vid Jack
Lanoguard is an excellent product.
& should be used on every car in the uk.
This reminds me of the perils of rust with any car made from steel. Rust is just so inevitable and so depressing. That’s why I avoid the issue buy running a Lotus Elise – aluminium and GRP only!
Nice video, Jack. It all makes good sense. I do usually lower my tire pressures maybe 5 psi below recommended if I’m driving on snow. It seems to improve traction.
Toyota Engine Is The Most Powerful Ever For All Brands
1. Lotus Evora
2. Lexus ES
3. Scion tC
4. Mazda2
5. Subaru BRZ/Toyota GT86
6. Daihatsu Rocky
7. HINO 700
8. Spyker B6 Venator
9. Pontiac Vibe
10. Chevy Nova
Salt was born sea water. Salt is cheap or expensive bacause of brand name as brand country 😂
Salt, Made In USA
Salt, Made In Japan
Salt, Made In India
Salt, Made In China 😂
Customers never know about it. Same and Same, They Changed Bodykit or Plastic Cover 😂
Would be interesting to see in a few weeks/months to find out what protection is left on the car, or whether a few drives through the rain washes it off.
I definitely would have removed the spare wheel for this! I took off everything I could, powerwashed and scrubbed when I undersealed my car. I feel really confident it's the best job I could have done.
Jack, what is the reason to pressure wash the underside of the car after applying the protective coating? The use of the stiff (wire?) brush prior to it made perfect sense:- it would not only remove the vast majority of any caked on deposits, but would likely physically abrade much of the surface rust to which you referred.
So far, so good. Surely, though, that would have been the time to pressure wash the underside? Which would remove any remaining dust (including rust dust!) left by the brush – giving you an even cleaner surface on which subsequently to apply the rust sealant spray; furthermore, avoid the need to pressure wash somewhat gingerly over one's just-applied rust proofing? Granted, it would mean either leaving it 24 hours to ensure everywhere was fully dry prior to commencing the rust proofing (with or without the use of hairdryer/heat gun/space heater) but, unless I am having another senior moment, that would seem to me to be the more logical order😆
Is that car what was from robs channel