Honda Element Stalling Part 2 Ivan to the Rescue!



So before recording part 1 I had been talking to Ivan about my issues with this Element and this is what he suggested to do.

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43 thoughts on “Honda Element Stalling Part 2 Ivan to the Rescue!”

  1. Those exhaust valves were pretty tight.! They are prone to sink in the valve seat with the heat, however the intakes don't seem to have that problem. I really think
    you fixed it! Put some miles on it, and I think those fuel trims will stabilize . Blessings.

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  2. wild-ass guess…. #4 injector is leaky? but I guess when you did the on car flow test, it would have shown up as a pressure drop when the fuel pump shut off. so maybe not…..

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  3. ya gotta remove the shirt and put a head lamp on. then it might be more realistic lol. tight valves change valve timing just a wee bit and add in phasers it will increase the egr effect. egr leans it out fuel increases to compensate. add in engine wear and well used sensors this may be the best it gets

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  4. I saw on your scanner that Your idle learn is not completed. Clean your throttle/iac and try to relearn it for your stalling issue. I know that doesn’t help the fuel correction while driving but if you have no other issues and you just don’t like the number, you need to consider the evap system playing a role in trimming during the purge process of course when it’s warmed up. Block the purge line from intake to see if it changes. An oil change would be on my list after all. Good luck

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  5. Hello Jake this is rmechanico I want to tell you your videos are great and I can honestly say that there are a few cars that can humble you I'm a retired technician and I think it was a great idea to get a second opinion these cars can humble you do not let it get to you if you need help ask for it sometimes two heads are better than one Don't let it get to you bro You're a wonderful technician I have watched you do amazing work cheer up bro

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  6. While sitting in drivers seat at operating temperature viewing fuel trims note where their at then pump the brake pedal like 15 times and observe fuel trims. Should go lean as vacuum is introduced,then a short time the trims go back to normal…hope you understand!

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  7. Don't most cars need a few driver cycles to sort out/learn changes to the car? You might need to dive it every day for a week to get it to finally settle into it's own rhythm.

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  8. Seems you got the stall problem fixed, Jake! Seems you're getting gas fumes from somewhere. Like Ivan said below, you probably should change the engine oil (IIRC, he had a similar problem a while back, that cleared after the oil change).

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  9. upstream 02 sensor, do not use a none OEM sensor , these cars can be finicky about certain non-OEM parts and O2 sensors are one of them, the upstream do affect open loop. test with a used known good sensor if you have one.

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  10. Was an Acura dealer tech. Exhaust valves always get tight on these higher mileage Hondas. I use to run through them by feel and only adjust the ones with zero lash. The rule of thumb I’ve always used for Hondas is to look at my map voltage to be under 1 volt. Anytime I would have right valves I would see map voltages over a volt that would bounce around pretty rapidly.

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  11. The exhaust valves on Hondas get tight. They get hot and actually suck up causing a tight valve, intake will be fine or slightly loose. Valves should be somewhat ticky. Hondas with over 200,000 miles we often see it. Start up cold you will see random misses also rich trims

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  12. @ 19:06 observe your Calc LD and you Manifold pressure. Both incorrect for that rpm and throttle angle. This is why the trim's are negative. You should not have almost 50 percent load at 11 percent throttle angle with zero vehicle speed. Way to keep to it. Great work Jake!!! Time to test what is causing the high intake pressure.

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  13. I have seen where someone installed cheap ebay injectors. The injectors have a different flow rate then oem (spray more fuel). So when you start the car it is in open loop and spraying too much fuel, but once it goes into fuel control the ecm reduces injector on time to compensate for the rich condition.

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  14. Wassup Jake! The “I need Caleb” got me bro! 😂😂 Trust me I know the feeling! On these engines only the exhaust are normally tight whenever you have to adjust the valve clearances. I check both to be safe but I normally only end up doing the exhaust. The map sensor voltage normally gives it away. Anything above 800mV is usually an indicator of tight valves. You’ll more than likely see random misfire codes as well. They’re super solid engines aside from that though. Glad you got it figured out!

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  15. Also looking at the video longer the threshold is positive or negative 15 percent so if gets that high for a period of time it will set fuel trim codes. Check the basics; exhaust restriction, purge valve, egr valve etc. Curious to know what you find.

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  16. It seems on these engines from what I have seen most of the time it’s always the exhaust valves that get valve seat wear. It should be #1 compression stroke you adjust all of #1, intakes valves on #2 exhaust valves #3 then rotate the motor to #4 compression stroke you adjust all of #4 intake valves on #3 exhaust valves on #2.

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  17. Trims going so far negative it's starving it for fuel. Honda's have so many different engines if someone installs the wrong O2 sensor ( wrong engine code ) they will do that. Been there done that.

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