The Worst Thing About Pedalboards – This One Doesn't Need Velcro – the Guitto



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33 thoughts on “The Worst Thing About Pedalboards – This One Doesn't Need Velcro – the Guitto”

  1. It's so funny. I built two pedalboards during Covid and it took me forever. I used 3M Dual Lock and Mogami cable with Square Plugs for the connections and It looked really professional. All top tier pedals. I got the VP4 and realized I didn't need any of my other pedals and sold almost all of them. The only one I kept is my Strymon Big Sky MX. To be fair though, I do have an Axe-Fx III but I would never try to use that on a gig or jam, it's way to complicated. I just saw your new video on the VP4 but I haven't watched it yet.

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  2. Interesting system.

    I built a bunch of pedalboards several years ago using the Temple Audio system. That takes a different approach, where you get a bunch of sticky "quick release" mounting pads that you attach to the back of the pedal, and the board is full of little holes which you use to both align lugs on the pad onto the board and secure the pedal position (a little bit like lego) but also you use a special bolt which screws in from underneath to actually attach the pedal. Once attached, the pedal is, literally, rock solid. It ain't even wobbling a bit.

    You do have some flexibility to easily move the pedal around by undoing the bolt and moving the pedal, but the lugs on the pad have to align so, if you need to move the pedal up by (say) 4mm, you can't. At least, not easily (you can remove the sticky pad and replace it).

    One of the nicer things about the system is that they do a range of end-panel connectors for different signal types, power, and so on, so you can end up with a nice board which has an IEC connector to plug into power with a kettle lead, and all of the ins and outs (e.g. "to amp", "to fx send" "to fx return") on the side panels.

    They even do functional modules like buffers, a CIOKS power supply, reamping and DI, and stereo summing mods which also integrate into the end panels of the board. Two modules of note are the stereo summing module which provides true stereo, split mono, or stereo summed to mono outputs, and the 4X mod, which allows you to use 4CM setups, but to automatically re-routes the cabling so you fall back to a standard dual cable connection if you don't have an amp with FX loop.

    Combined with a custom cabling kit, you can make extremely neat, extremely strong and reliable pedalboards.

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  3. Oh! That's so much better! Now, instead of just being able to immediately pull it off the board when I need to, I can spend more time hunting around for the tool I misplaced or forgot to bring with me! Woo hoo!

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  4. I dont like velcro, so I have never used it. I have in fact never used a bespoke pedalboard, rather I tend to make them out of other things, and they work FAR better than anything I have seen marketed specifically for the purpose. Short of a Bradshaw rig anyway.

    Currently, for example, my board is the perforated backplate from a Peavey Windsor, mounted via standoff to a slab of 3/4" ply, which creates a space under the plate for wiring and such, and gives me a flat surface perforated with an array of holes that match up with the screw holes on the bottom of my pedals. You can maybe see where this is going.

    Take the screws out of the bottom, leave the bottom plate on, position where you like, thread screws back in through the top plate. Pedals dont even think about moving, they acquire no nasty melted velcro adhesive, they are not marked or modified in any way in fact. This one even has reactive RGB since the parts were sitting around on the bench and I thought it would be cool to have my board light up in tandem with my playing.

    I have 2 Iso blocks and a GP AC strip under there as well, so I can always power everything with one power cable, and I have 6 AC outlets handy on the board for incidental needs.

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  5. John, after several years, I have come to the conclusion that that knife is not only ridiculous, it's not even fucking SHARP! That being said, I can easily see you losing a finger one day as you carelessly hack at a package with it, while absently talking to camera.
    I've seen similar comments on your youtubes before. I only chime in myself because I enjoy your playing (daily), and do not wish to see a whole series of vids from you titled 'Learning to play like Django', or 'We need to talk about two finger legato method'. I get that it's like a gimmick – a signature unboxing motif – but just get a sodding Stanley knife! Just sayin.

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  6. Hmm, for the price, a better power supply attachment and shielding arrangement than a $30 metal wedge pedal board would be nice. Mine has two power supplies, One for the power amp and one for the pedals. I pack and unpack my board 4 times a week. I have not had any problems with the velcro. I don't change pedals much, this is true, but still, if I can change strings when they wear out can velcro be that much harder? My first thought, which someone else confirmed, was that fewer pedals would fit on the same sized board. So note to the manufacture and prospective buyers, a bit pricey (though of course you can spend a lot more but I do have to look at the price), power supply retention and protection not properly thought out (I notice yours did not fit properly) , Read the rest of the comments for other problems. It will be interesting to see how it fares after a few months. The best retention system I have seen is to take the back cover screws out and use longer ones through the board with loktite.

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  7. Dual lock is unbelievably good and actually you only need to run a (blunt) kitchen knife under your pedal and it will release very easily. Much better solution than losing the tool to open these locking mechanisms , which is inevitable let’s face it

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  8. I’ve been using their large board for a couple years now and love it. Never had a pedal fall off or come loose and I’ve got everything from a quad cortex to a small compressor on there and they stay locked down nice and tight.

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  9. That is a neat solution for boards that are not modified frequently, and I do not mind the extra board space required for the mounting solution, as it prevents me from putting pedals too close together and making it hard to only hit one foot switch at a time. I moved to a "modular" approach with my boards quite some time ago to keep the boards smaller, lighter, more consistent, and carry less stuff around that will not get used anyhow. I use one "end of chain" board with delay, reverb, IR loader and DI/LI box that never changes, one dedicated for recording bass and acoustic, one main board (Tonex, Stomp XL, and all drives that go in front), plus one "goofy" board (fuzzes, Univibe, wah, octave) that only gets used when these are required / tolerated. The "main" board is the only one that constantly changes and gets used all the time, for which Dual Lock is still my preferred solution.

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  10. Yeah, I bought a pedaltrain nano, and it's essentially useless. The velcro doesn't stick to many pedals, and if you want to move one around it all rips off the board and pedal… very frustrating, and a waste of money.
    I didn't use pedal boards back in the 90s (didn't even know they were a thing), and I got along just fine. I'm going back to that.

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